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HOME LABOR SAVING 
DEVICES 



BY 

RHEA C. §COTT 



DISTRICT AGENT FOR HOME DEMONSTRATION WORK IN VIRGINIA 



ILLUSTRATED BY 

MRS. R. E. GAMBLE 




PHILADELPHIA AND LONDON 
J. B. LIPPINCOTT COMPANY 



3^ 



COPYRIGHT, I9I7, BY J. B. LIPPINCOTT COMPANY 



MAR 12 1317 



Electrotyped and Printed by J. B. Lippincott Company 
The Washington Square Press, Philadelphia, U. S. A. 



(Q)CI,A457389 






TO THE WOMEN AND GIRLS OF THE FARM, LOVERS 
OF THE FIELDS, AND FRIENDS OF THE FLOWERS, 
WHOSE HEARTS HEAR THE CALL AND WHOSE HANDS 
SEEK THE SKILL TO MAKE THE RURAL HOME A 
PLACE OF LIGHT, OF HEALTH, OF BEAUTY, THIS 
LITTLE VOLUME IS AFFECTIONATELY DEDICATED 



PREFACE 

The point of view from which this manual was written is 
indicated in the introduction. 

The aims are to increase efficiency in the farm home and to 
satisfy the growing demand for useful information in the country 
schools. 

This is done by giving suggestions and directions for practical 
work to be done in the home and at school. 

Throughout the country to-day many rural schools are ex- 
pressing a desire to add to their present school curricula courses 
which are practical. The ideal kept in mind during the prepara- 
tion of this manual has been to supply that need and at the same 
time to make it possible for any woman to use the book in her 
own home. 

The limitations in the size have caused many omissions. It 
is the intention of the author to enlarge upon this material as 
the demand increases. Ideas and suggestions from other States 
have been dominant throughout, thus carrying out the true demon- 
stration point of view. 

The Author. 

January, 1917. 



ACKNOWLEDGMENTS 

Acknowledgment and thanks are gratefully given to the 
following persons for suggestions, use of material, and 
corrections : 

Miss Ola Powell, United States Department of Agriculture, 
Washington, D. C, for making this little volume possible by- 
inspirational suggestions furnished throughout the preparation 
of the manual and especially for the use of her two models of 
jelly strainers and illustrations on cheese making. 

Mr. O. B. Martin, United States Department of Agriculture, 
Washington, D. C, for his most valuable suggestions and sympa- 
thetic interest during the entire preparation of the material. 

The United States Department of Agriculture, Washington, 
D. C, for photographs of roller tray wagon, water works system, 
and ideas obtained from circular letter prepared by Miss Mary E. 
Creswell and Miss Ola Powell, of the States Relations Service, 
Office of Extension Work in the South. 

Mr. Harry M. Lamon, Poultry Division of the Bureau of 
Animal Industry, United States Department of Agriculture, 
Washington, D. C, for illustrations of poultry house, dry mash 
hopper and chicken coop, and the use of information in Farmers' 
Bulletin, No. 574. 

Mr. B. H. Rawl, Chief of the Dairy Division, Bureau of 
Animal Industry, United States Department of Agriculture, 
Washington, D. C, and Mr. J. H. McClain and other specialists 
in the Dairy Division for assistance in taking the pictures and 
for criticisms and corrections of the material. 

Mr. N. E. D. Talcott, State Agent in Poultry Club Work in 
Virginia, for the use of his dry mash hopper and oat-sprouting 
rack. 

Dr. John W. Wayland, State Normal School, Harrisonburg, 
Va., for his appropriate dedication. 



8 ACKNOWLEDGMENTS 

Miss Elizabeth C. Cleveland, Head of the English Depart- 
ment, State Normal School, Harrisonburg, Va., for reading and 
correcting manuscript. 

Mrs. K. C. Blythe, Leesburg, Va., for permission to use a 
dish drainer. 

Mr. C. E. Hanson, A. & M. College, College Station, Texas, 
for his interest and helpful suggestions. 

Miss Emma Chandler, State Agent in Home Demonstra- 
tion Work, Stillwater, Okla., for the use of iceless refrigerator 
No. 2 and directions for making same. 

Mr. Thos. H. Fullan, Alabama Polytechnic Institute, Auburn, 
Ala., for the use of his milking stool and suggestions for making 
the shower bath. 

Mrs. Helen Brown Wolcott, State Agent in Home Demon- 
stration Work, Lexington, Ky., for ideas for making the dish 
rack. 

Also others who have contributed to this volume. 



CONTENTS 



PAGE 

Introduction 13-14 

CHAPTER I 

Kitchen Conveniences 15 

Vegetable Paring Table, Wall Cabinet for the Kitchen Ironing Board, 
Jelly Strainer, No. i and No. 2, Dish Drainer, Dish Rack, Coal Box, 
Wood Box, Fireless Cooker. 

CHAPTER II 
Dining Room Conveniences 43 

Roller Tray Wagon, Sideboard, Screen. 

CHAPTER III 

Porch Equipment 51 

Iceless Refrigerator, No. i and No. 2, Umbrella Stand, Blacking Box, 
Towel Roller, Porch Swing. 

CHAPTER IV , 

Miscellaneous Equipment 67 

Dustless Mop, Folding Canning Table, Fly Trap, Garbage Barrel, 
Scrubbing Chariot, Sewing Screen, Shower Bath, Practical Waterworks 
System. 

CHAPTER V 

Poultry Devices 84 

Poultry House, Nests, Egg Tester, Dry Mash Hopper, No. i and No. 2, 
Rack for Oat-Sprouting Trays, Dust Boxes, Drinking Vessel, Chicken 
Brooder. 

CHAPTER VI 
Dairy Devices 99 

Butter-making, Butter Worker, Milking Stool, Cheese-making Equipment. 

APPENDIX 

Fundamentals in Woodworking, Suggested List of Tools, List of Publi- 
cations for"*Supplementary Reading. 
Index 119 



ILLUSTRATIONS 

Page 
Convenient Arrangement for Kitchen Devices Frontispiece 

An Exhibit of Home-made Labor Saving Devices 14 

Assembled Material for Building a Fireless Cooker : 40 

Roller Tray Wagon, Including Compartment for China and a Drawer 
FOR Silver and Linen 44 

ICELEss Refrigerator 54 

A Portable Poultry House, Showing the Exterior and Interior 84 

Churning Operations 104 



INTRODUCTION 

By President Julian A. Burruss 

State Normal School for Women, Harrisonburg, Va. 

No phase of mo'dern social development has received more 
attention in recent years than that of our rural population. 
Advances have been striking along all lines of country life. It 
would, however, be too much to say that the interests of women 
and their work in the home have received the attention properly 
due them. Frequently farmers of the highest type will equip 
their farms with the latest and best implements and machinery 
for their work and yet will fail to provide their homes with 
equipment equally as essential and desirable for the work of 
the women members of their households. Women's organiza- 
tions and the agents of the Home Demonstration Work, together 
with other agencies, have done much to direct attention along 
this very important line and in many communities labor-saving 
devices of a most ingenious character have been developed. 

What is good for one busy housewife is not too good for 
another, and it is a good rule to push a good thing along for 
the benefit of others. With this in view the author has gathered 
together numerous inventions of home-made devices of a labor- 
saving and efficiency-increasing kind, and describes them in this 
little volume so that all to whom it may come may have the 
opportunity to make such contrivances, or modifications of them, 
for their own use. In doing this, the author has not merely 
had in her mind her own State, but has sought to recognize the 
viewpoints of women in as many other States as possible. 

The author is peculiarly fitted for the task she has set herself. 
As Assistant State Agent for Home Demonstration Work in 
Virginia, under the direction of the United States Department of 
Agriculture, and as supervisor and community worker for a 
number of years in various rural districts before assuming the 



14 INTRODUCTION 

duties of her present position, she has had abundant facihties 
for becoming famihar with the conditions prevaiHng in country 
homes. Having maintained sympathetic relationships with coun- 
try women for many years, she knows their problems and their 
needs, and she is also familiar with the sources from which help 
may be drawn. 

There can be no real improvement in social life in the country 
unless there is leisure time to be devoted to uplifting, cultural, 
and recreational purposes. The only way in which this may 
be obtained is by means of labor-saving and time-saving appli- 
ances. The articles here described are intensely practical and 
may be readily made in any home at a nominal cost. To make 
two blades of grass grow where one formerly grew is certainly 
a very valuable achievement; but to save muscles and nerves, 
and to give time and energy for mental and social and spiritual 
development, is far more valuable and desirable. If the informa- 
tion given in this book serves to lighten the burden and shorten 
the daily drudgery of a single housewife, its publication will be 
justified; and it should find a cordial reception in a multitude 
of homes. 



HOME LABOR SAVING 
DEVICES 

CHAPTER I 

KITCHEN CONVENIENCES 

VEGETABLE PARING TABLE 

A convenient kitchen table made of poplar and covered with 
zinc with an opening in the center through which the parings of 
vegetables or the scraping of dishes may be put into a pail sitting 
on the lower shelf. This saves soiling the floor and many steps 
while preparing the vegetables for cooking. It should be remem- 
bered that the pail underneath must be removed and the contents 
emptied into the garbage barrel after each using. It is not a 
garbage pail and should in no sense be used as such. Above the 
table hooks on which hang many smaller cooking utensils, such 
as paring knives, graters, spoons, scissors, or can opener's, are 
all arranged to accommodate the housekeeper. 

Materials : 
12' poplar. 

% lb. 6-penny nails to construct table. 
I piece of sheet zinc, 12" X 30", to cover the top of table. 

Dimensions : , 

Top: I piece i" thick X 18" wide X 26" long. 
Shelf: I piece i" thick X 10" wide X 2,2" long. 
Legs: 4 pieces i%" thick X ly^" wide X 24" long. 
Cleats: 4 pieces i" thick X i" wide X 14" long. 

Directions : 

After cutting legs, nail on cleats even with the top edge, measuring 14" 
for the bottom cleat. Measure 2" from the ends and sides of the top 
and nail on the legs. Measure jH" from the right-hand end and 9" 
from the side and make a hole 8" in diameter. Nail the bottom shelf at 
an equal distance from the bottom of the legs. 

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WALL CABINET FOR THE KITCHEN 

(Made from Dry Goods Boxes) 

A comfort to the housewife is a kitchen cabinet, containing 
different compartments for spices and such accessories necessary in 
cooking. It is made of boxes and should be put at some place 
convenient to the work table so the woman will not have to move 
to get these things when preparing a meal. It surely fulfils the 
old adage, "A place for everything and everything in its place." 



Materials : 

I box of the required dimensions to build the body. 

12 salt boxes used as drawers in the compartments. 

Ys lb. 8-penny nails to be used in the construction of the cabinet. 

12 round-head screws to be used as knobs. 

Sandpaper and stain. 



Dimensions : 

Body: i box 4^4" deep X izYa" wide X i8^" long. 
Shelves: 4 pieces y%" thick X 4^" wide X 12^" long. 
Drawers: 12 salt boxes, 4" X 4" X 4". 




18 



HOME LABOR SAVING DEVICES 



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Directions : 



Remove the sides from the box, making them the exact length of the 
inside of the box. Draw a line across the bottom and the ends of the box 
about 2" from the edge of the sides. Nail the sides to the bottom and 
the ends of the box about 2" from the edge of the sides, with outside faces 
on pencil line. Plane and sandpaper the edges until they are smooth. 
Nail the shelves in at equal distances apart to make four compartments of 
equal size. Place three of the salt boxes in each compartment. Sand- 
paper, stain, and polish. 



20 HOME LABOR SAVING DEVICES 

' ■ IRONING BOARD 

This ironing board is a, very great step saver. It is always 
ready and in place. It is fastened to the wall at the most con- 
venient place and adjusted to suit the one who is to use it. When 
not in use it can be folded up and hinged against the wall out of 
the way. . The leg is hinged to the ironing board and falls into 
position when the board is lifted. Skirts may be easily ironed 
without changing the position of the leg. 

Materials : 

8' of pine. 

3 3" plain steel (butt) hinges. 

2^/2 doz. 1^2" No. 12 flat-head screws. 

2 yds. of white cotton flannel. 

2^ yds. unbleached muslin. 

2 pieces of cotton tape. 

Dimensions : 

I piece i" thick X 14" wide X 3' long to be used as top of board. 

1 piece i" thick X 4" wide X 10" long to be used as a board strip. 

2 pieces i" thick X 2" wide X 4" long to be fastened to the wall to hold 
the board in position. 

I piece i" thick X 4" wide X 14" long to be used as a wall strip. 
I piece i" thick X 4" wide X 4' long to be used as brace for board. 
I piece i" thick X 4" wide X 8" long to be used as brace support. 

Directions : 

Plane the top of the board (i" X 14" X 3') on the smoothest side. With 
a radius of 4^" lay out a semi-circle at the middle of one end of the 
board as shown in illustration. Tliis may be done with 3, compass or with 
a string and pencil. Make the other end of the board square with one edge. 
Two feet from each end make a mark on each edge and draw a straight 
line from each of these marks tangent to the semi-circle. Saw along 
these lines, smoothing the edges with the plane. Fasten the wall strip 
(i" X 4" X 14") to this top with 2 No. 3 (butt) hinges. Bore 3 54'' holes 
through the board strip (i" X 4" X 10") and fasten it to the bottom of 
the top at a distance of 34" from the wall strip. The brace (i" X 4" X 4') 
is fastened to the board strip with one No. 3 (butt) hinge. ^" holes are 
bored through the wall strip and it is fastened at a convenient height 
to the wall with 3 flat-head screws. After boring 3 Yz" holes through 
the brace support (i" X 4" X 8") it is screwed to the wall with 3 flat- 
head screws. Place this support directly below the wall strip and at such 
a distance from it to make the board level when the brace is in position. 
Bore 2 ^" holes in one of the pieces measuring i" X 2" X 4", and one hole 
through the other piece. Fold the board up against the wall and fasten 



KITCHEN CONVENIENCES 



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HOME LABOR SAVING DEVICES 



the piece with the two holes to the wall just a little to one side of the board 
and 2' above the wall strip. The other piece with one hole is fastened to 
this piece to hold the ironing board in position. 

The covering may be made of cotton flannel or an old blanket. Allow 
2" on the sides and the end to be turned under after it has been cut the 
shape of the board. This must be tacked firmly and smoothly on the 
board. The ironing sheet may be made of unbleached muslin or an old 
sheet. This is also cut the shape of the board, allowing 4" on the sides 
and end for the hem. Attach pieces of tape to the opposite sides about 
10" apart to tie the sheet on the board. 




KITCHEN CONVENIENCES 



23 



JELLY STRAINER NO. i 

An old chair is generally used to hang the jelly bag over 
while the juice is dripping. As a substitute the device shown 
in the following illustration is suggested as being more con- 
venient and sanitary in every way. It not only provides a place 
for the bag to hang, but it also has a shelf on which the pan sits 
to catch the drippings from the bag. The legs are adjustable; 
hence it is easily taken apart and kept in a small space. This 
makes the strainer especially convenient to the Canning Club 
Agent as she goes her daily rounds teaching the housekeepers the 
art of jelly-making. It can be easily made at home and at a 
little cost. 

Materials : 

3' poplar. 

12 No. ID screws, 234", to fasten the adjustable legs to the shelves. 

8 No. 9 screws, i", to fasten braces to the top of strainer. 

I yd. white flannel for the jelly bag. 

I piece of white tape to make loops on bag. 




HOME LABOR SAVING DEVICES 



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KITCHEN CONVENIENCES 25 

Dimensions : 

Legs: 4 pieces i>^" thick X i><" wide X 31^" long. 

Shelves: 4 pieces i" thick X iy>" wide X 7" long to make the upper shelf. 

I piece i" thick X 15" wide 15" long for lower shelf. 
Braces: 4 pieces i" thick X 2j4" wide X 3" long to be cut into 4 equal 

triangles. 

Directions : 

Bevel the tops of all 4 of the legs at an angle of 45°. Make the upper 
shelf of the 4 pieces measuring i" X 1I/2" X 7". Measure 2j4" from 
the tops of the 4 legs and screw the upper shelf to the legs at these points. 
A solid piece of wood with a hole in the center may be used in making 
this shelf. Support {his upper shelf by screwing the four triangular 
braces (i" X 2^" X 3") in the corners of the shelf. Use the 8 i-inch 
No. 9 screws for this purpose. Saw the lower shelf out 15^" on each 
corner and screw it on the legs at a distance of 9" from the bottom of 
the legs. Sandpaper but do not stain. Take a piece of flannel of the 
desired size and make the jelly bag in the shape of a triangle. Sew a 
loop of tape at each corner to hang the bag over the posts. 



26 



HOME LABOR SAVING DEVICES 



JELLY STRAINER, NO. 2 

While this jelly strainer is unique and useful In its con- 
struction it is not adjustable. It is made of poplar at a minimum 
cost. Around the top edge are arranged little brass hooks. 
These are put at equal distances apart. At the lower end of the 
trough two plugs are put, one above the other, through which the 
jelly juice flows out into a pan placed beneath the plugs. 




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The jelly bag is made of an oblong piece of flannel with ivory 
rings sewed around the edges so as to hang the bag on the brass 
hooks around the top of the frame. 

Materials : 

4' of poplar. 

4 No. 9 screws, i^", to fasten handles on the sides. 
16 No. 10 screws, 2", to fasten ends on the sides. 

5 No. 10 screws, i54". to fasten the sides together at the bottom. 
14 brass cup hooks arranged around the top edges. 

14 white ivory rings to be sewed on jelly bag. 
I yd. white flannel for jelly bag. 



KITCHEN CONVENIENCES 



27 



Dimensions : 

Sides: 2 pieces i" thick X 12" wide X 15]4" long. 
Ends: 2 pieces i" thick X 12^" wide X 17^" long. 
Handles: 2 pieces i" thick X2i/<" wide X 4" long. 
Plugs: 2 pieces i" thick X i" wide X 3" long. 

Directions : 

Saw the two end pieces according to the illustration. Measure 6%" from 
the bottom of each end and cut them out %" to fit sides (i" thick) plac- 
ing the sides }i" from the outer side of the end pieces. Measure equal 
spaces from each side of the ends and put the handles lyi" from the top 
edge. Bore two holes }i" in diameter near the bottom of the end to fit 
the plugs. Bevel the two sides (i" X 12" X 15^") at the bottom so as to 
make a tight and neat joint. Screw the end pieces to the sides. Screw 
the brass cup hooks at equal distances apart around the top edge of the 
strainer. 




28 HOME LABOR SAVING DEVICES 

DISH DRAINER 

The work of dish-washing is greatly reduced by the use of a 
dish drainer. The dishes are carefully washed and arranged in 
the drainer, and boiling water poured over them. When they 
are dry, they can be put away or allowed to stand with a clean 
cloth thrown over them until ready to use. 

This dish drainer resembles a box in shape, put on legs, with 
slats placed inside at equal distances apart, making the compart- 
ments to hold the dishes. The space in front is made a little 
larger to accommodate the irregular dishes. An experienced 
housewife will know that glassware and silverware cannot be 
dried by this method. A hole is made in one corner of the 
drainer through which the water drains off into a pail which is 
kept under the corner. 

Materials : 

i6' of white pine. 

^-2 lb. of 4-penny nails for nailing slats in box. 

J4 lb. of 8-penny nails for nailing box on the legs. 

4^2 of sheet zinc to cover the inside of drainer. 

4" of half-galvanized pipe for drainage tube. 

I drainage pail. 

Sandpaper. 

I can of white paint. 

I can of white enamel. 

Dimensions : 

Bottom: 1 piece i" thick X 24" wide X 26" long. 
Sides: 2 pieces i" thick X 8" wide X 26" long. 

2 pieces i" thick X 8" wide X 24" long. 
Legs: 4 pieces i" thick X 4" wide X 36" long, for back legs. 

4 pieces i" thick X 4" wide X 35" long, for front legs. 
Slats: 2 pieces J4" thick X i" wide X 24" long. 

6 pieces J4" thick X i" wide X 26" long. 

Directions : 

Make a pine box which is 8" deep and 24" X 26" long. The joints must 
be laid in white lead in order to make the drainer water tight. Nail 2 
slats %" thick X i" wide X 24" long down flat from the front to the 
back of the box at the outer edge. These are used as supports for the 
other crosswise slats and also allow the water to run under the slats. 



KITCHEN CONVENIENCES 



29 



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Nail 4 slats on these supports, beginning 3^4" from the back of the box 
and making a distance of 3/4" between each slat. This will leave a 9" 
space in front of the box for the irregular dishes. The front legs are 
made of the four pieces i" thick X 4" wide X 35" long, and the back 
legs are i" thick X 4" wide X 36" deep. This slant provides for the 
drainage. The drainer should be tipped a little to the corner in which 
the drain pipe is placed. If zinc is to be used for lining, it must be done 
before the slats are put into the box. 




KITCHEN CONVENIENCES 31 

DISH RACK 

A rack made of poplar, with several compartments to accom- 
modate dishes of different sizes. 

The large platters are put in the largest upright spaces, the 
dinner plates being arranged in the middle-sized spaces, with the 
smaller plates and saucers in the top spaces. It may be placed 
at a convenient place in the kitchen or dining room so as to save 
the housekeeper unnecessary steps. Mortise and tenon joints 
will make a more substantial rack but these are not necessary. 
The parts may be nailed together. After joining the parts 
together, sandpaper, paint white and enamel. 

Materials : 

6/^' poplar. 

12 No. 6 nails to nail on the top. 

45 No. 44 box nails for nailing on upright pieces. 

50 No. 16 wire brads, ^", for nailing tenons in mortise. 

2 No. 9 screws, li^", to screw the base on the rack. 

Sandpaper for dressing the rack. 

I pt. white paint. 

I pt. enamel. 

Dimensions : 

Top: I piece ^" thick X 4^^" wide X 23" long. 

2 pieces ^" thick X i^^" wide X 30" long. 
Bottom: 2 pieces 54" thick X i^" wide X 30" long. 

1 piece i" thick X 2>4" wide X 12" long for base. 
Middle: 2 pieces 54" thick X 1I/2" wide X 21" long. 
Ends: 2 pieces 54" thick X i^" wide X 24" long. 

Crosspieces: 2 pieces 54" thick X 15/2" wide X 3" long to be used as top 
of rack. 

2 pieces 54" thick X 3" wide X 3" long to be used as bottom of rack. 
Upright pieces: 16 pieces ^" thick X J^" wide X 26" long to be used 

as side pieces 8 on each side. 

2 pieces 54" thick X ij^" wide X 20^" long. 

Directions : 

Mortise the two end pieces %", to fit tenon. Nail the two crosspieces, 
measuring (54" X i^" X 3") to them. Make %" mortises on the two 
top pieces (54" X 3" X 3"). These mortises are made 3" from the end 
and the two pieces nailed to crosspieces. Screw on the bottom board (i" 



32 



HOME LABOR SAVING DEVICES 



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X 2^" X 12") with lYz" No. 9 screws. Mortise the 4 top and bottom 
pieces (^" X i^^" X 30") 14" from the top and bottom and nail them 
lengthwise on the rack. The two middle pieces (^" X ij^" X 21") are 
mortised and nailed 11" from the top edge of the bottom piece. The 
upright pieces (^" X ii4" X 201^") are nailed 9" from the left side. 
Nail the eight upright pieces (J4" X ^" X 26") on each side with No. 4 
box nails. The top piece (^" X 41^" X 33") is nailed on the top of the 
rack. Sandpaper, paint and enamel. 




34 HOME LABOR SAVING DEVICES 

COAL BOX 

The construction of this box is both simple and convenient, 
and it requires little space in the room to accommodate it. There 
are four compartments in it. The back is divided equally to 
provide places for the kindling and paper; the front space is 
used for coal, and while it makes it more durable to line it with 
metal, this is not necessary. There is a narrow opening in the 
front in which the cleaning materials are kept — polish, brush, 
and stove rags. Stain or paint will make the coal box more 
attractive. 

Materials : 

27J^' of poplar. 

3 pairs of ly'z" (butt) hinges. 

24 %" No. 8 screws for hinges. 

2 lbs. 5-penny box nails. 

3 screen door handles. 
I iron door button. 

4 castors. 

5 lb|. sheet metal. 

Dimensions : 

Top: I piece i" thick X i' 9^" wide X 2' lYz" long to be used as level 

top. 
Front: i piece i" thick X i' 7" wide X 2' i^^" long for the slanting front. 
Bottom: i piece i" thick X i' 11^" wide X 2' 10" long. 
Back: I piece i" thick X 2' i" wide X i' 11I/2" long to be used as the 

back of the box. 
Ends: 2 pieces i" thick X 2' 2" wide X 3' long. 
Partitions: 1 piece i" thick X 21" wide X i' iilA" long to be used as the 

partition in the back. 

I piece i" thick X 2' 2" wide X i' 11^" long to be used as the slanting 

partition in the bottom of the coal box. 
Supports: i piece ^" thick X i^" wide X i' iii^" long to be used as a 

support at the back of the opening in the box to hold door in place. 
Drawer: i piece i" thick X i' i^" wide X 2' lYz" long for the front of 

the drawer. 

I piece i" thick X 5" wide X i' 11^" long for the back of the drawer. 

I piece i" thick X 10" wide X i' n^" for the top of the drawer. 

Directions : 

Measure i' 9^" from the back of the two end pieces (i" X 2' 2" X 3'). 
Cut the corners off from this point to make a slant which will fit the door • 
i' 7" long. Nail the back (i" X i' 11^" X 2' i") to the two end pieces at 



KITCHEN CONVENIENCES 



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1 1 
1 1 

1 1 
1 1 

1 1 
J r 


1 , 

1 1 


1 


— 9" — * 



36 



HOME LABOR SAVING DEVICES 



the straight edge. The bottom piece (i" X i' ii^" X 2' 10") is then 
nailed to the back and sides. Cut out a 4" X i' iij/^" opening in the front 
piece (i" X i' ii>^" X 2' ij^") for the drawer and then nail the front to 
the sides and bottom. Take the piece which has been cut out and hinge 
it to the opening as shown in the illustration. Nail the back and top 
partitions in this opening before the slanting partition which divides this 
division from the coal bin is put in. Measure 9" from the back of the 
coal box and put the straight partition (i" X 21" X i' iij^") in by nail- 
ing it to the bottom and sides of the coal box. Then the slanting parti- 
tion (i" X 2' 2" X i' 11^") is nailed to the bottom and front edge of the 
box as shown in the illustration. Cut an opening (9" X i' iij^") in the top 
(i" X i' 9^" X 2' lyi") and then nail top on the box, using the piece which 
is cut out for the door to the opening. Hinge this piece on with one pair 
of i^" (butt) hinges. The door support (^" X ^" X i' 11J/2") is 
nailed on the inside of the back of the box. Bevel the piece (i" X i' 7" 
X 2' i>4") for the slanting door. It must fit each edge as shown in the 
illustration. Hinge this door at the upper edge of the top with one pair 
of i^" (butt) hinges. One screen door handle is' put on each opening to 
lift them. The four castors are placed on the bottom of each corner of 
the box to make it more easily moved about. Stain or paint the coal box. 




KITCHEN CONVENIENCES 



37 



WOOD BOX 

(Made From Dry Goods Boxes) 

What an unsightly spectacle does a wood pile by the stove, 
on the porch, or in the corner of the room present ! It is a place 
of refuge for all trash, such as old papers and rags. This not 
only adds to the untidiness of the room or porch, but it makes 



Front 






Side 



m 



H/nge Strip a"j(3"xz9 " 



i 



Top V/ew 
\ Coyer Remoyed 



3Z 




extra work for the already overworked woman. The wood box 
made of old dry goods boxes should appeal strongly to the home. 
It can be kept by the stove or on the porch or in some convenient 
place to be reached, and to be filled by the man before he goes to 
his daily work. A lid will not only cover up the contents of the 
box, but it will serve as a comfortable seat to be used while 
preparing the meal. 



1 



38 



HOME LABOR SAVING DEVICES 



Materials : 

I packing box, 24" deep X 23^^" wide X 32" long. 
I pair 2" (butt) hinges with %" screws to fasten on top. 
%. lb. 8-penny nails to make box. 
Sandpaper and stain. 

Dimensions : 

Body: i box 24" deep X 23^" wide X 2,2" long. 
Top: I piece 54" thick X 18" wide X 32" long. 
Legs: 4 pieces Y4" thick X 2" wide X 28^" long. 

4 pieces ^" thick X 2>^" wide X 28^" long. 
Cleats: 2 pieces 5^" thick X 3" wide X 15" long. 
Hinge Strip: i piece J/2" thick X 3" wide X 29" long. 

Directions: 

Make the legs 4" longer than the depth of the box after the cover has been 
removed, and nail them on the box. Make the cover 2" wider an^, 2" 
longer than the outside length and width of the box. Place each cleat 
about 3" from the end of the cover and nail on the cover. Hinges are 
put 5" from each end of the box. Sandpaper, stain and poHsh. 




— --=^--^ 


1 




I 
























L- 
















X 








t 
















|i 








^- 








=j 
















fc-. 








w. 








ifj'"- - 










uy.Sj::-iijW^y.y'lV~i;iz^^^^ 













KITCHEN CONVENIENCES 39 

FIRELESS COOKER 

There are many advantages in having a fireless cooker in the 
home. It not only saves time and fuel but keeps the woman from 
standing over the hot fire, and there are many foods that are 
better when cooked at a lower temperature. The principle of 
the fireless cooker is to retain the heat by boiling the food in a 
vessel with a tight cover and placing it in the cooker in the same 
vessel, thus keeping the heat from escaping. An outside con- 
tainer may be made to accommodate one or more cooking vessels. 
A cheap but efficient fireless cooker may be made of a tightly built 
wooden box, a barrel, or a tin lard can as shown in the illustration. 
If the outside container is of wood it must be lined on the inside 
with asbestos or heavy paper to keep out the air. 

The nest may be a galvanized or tin bucket of a size which 
will admit of three inches of packing between the outside con- 
tainer and the nest. The sides and bottom of the nest are covered 
with asbestos to prevent the scorching or the burning of the 
packing. 

The packing must be of some material through which the heat 
cannot easily escape. Cork, sawdust, excelsior, hay, or shredded 
newspaper may be used to an advantage. Three inches of this 
packing is put tightly in the bottom of the outside container and 
around the sides to fill in the space between the outside container 
and the nest. 

A four-inch space is left at the top of the fireless cooker in 
which a cushion made of unbleached cotton or some other ma- 
terial is stuffed with the packing and placed to make the cooker 
air-tight. Cut two circles out of the unbleached cotton and a 
three-inch straight piece to join the circles together. A hot soap- 
stone, stove plate or brick is placed in the bottom of the nest before 
the food vessel is placed in the fireless cooker. The food vessel, 
may be any cooking utensil with a top that will fit in the nest 
after the soapstone has been put in. Cut a circle of tin or card- 
board to fit top of inside of cooker with an opening the size of 
the nest. This gives a good finish to the top of the fireless cogker 
and preserves the packing. 



40 



HOME LABOR SAVING DEVICES 




KITCHEN CONVENIENCES 



41 



Materials : 

I lard can i8" X 24". 

I lard can 12" X 15". 

4 lbs. excelsior. 

I yd. asbestos. 

54 yd. unbleached cotton. 

I soapstone. 

I sheet cardboard. 

Dimensions : 

Outside Container: 18" X 24". 

Nest: 12" X 15". 

Cooking Vessel: 11^2" X 13". 

Directions : 

Place 3" of excelsior in the bottom of the outside container (18" X 24") 
and pack it down tightly. Cover the bottom and sides of the nest (12" 
X 15") with asbestos. Then place nest in the outside container hold- 
ing it in place while 3" of packing is put tightly between the outside 
container and nest. Cut the cardboard circle to fit inside of the top of 
outside container with an opening to fit the top of the nest and put on 
top to give a good finish and to preserve the packing. Make the cushion 
for the top of the unbleached cotton by cutting two circles with 3" strip 
to join them together. Then pack the cushion tightly with the same 
packing. Enamel the cooker. 




42 



HOME LABOR SAVING DEVICES 




Any convenient box may be used and any can of convenient size, such as a lard can, etc. The 
cans should be wrapped with about 4 or s layers of asbestos paper. The space around the cans should 
be at least 2 inches, and filled with straw or wood shavings, etc. The top of the cans should be cov- 
ered with a pad filled with straw or shavings, etc. 



CHAPTER II 

DmiNG-ROOM CONVENIENCES 

ROLLER TRAY WAGON 

An efficient and convenient table placed on casters and wheels 
and comprising a china closet, drawer for silverware, serving 
table, and roller tray all in one. This device is invaluable to the 
housekeeper who does her own work. It saves her many steps 
in the preparation and the serving of her meals. While she is 
entertaining at a luncheon, it takes the place of a maid, since the 
refreshments can be prepared, arranged on the wagon, and rolled 
out at the appointed time. The prices of a tea wagon made in 
wicker or some expensive wood are very high, but one like the 
following illustration can be made at a nominal cost, or it can be 
made of dry goods boxes for even less. 

Materials : 

26' white pine. 

I piece of jack chain No. 14, 18" long, to support top. 

1 pair ij^" (butt) hinges to hold top. 
12 No. 5 screws, -J^", to fasten hinges. 
Yt. lb. S-penny box nails. 

2 brass hand bolts to fasten on drawer. 

8 No. 10 screws, #2^", to fasten legs to bottom shelf. 
2 furniture casters to put on legs. 
2 swivel or baby carriage wheels. 

Dimensions : 

Top: I piece i" thick X 16;^" wide X 26^" long. 

Sides: 2 pieces i" thick X 5" wide X 331/2" long, for front and back of 

body. 
Ends: 2 pieces i" thick X 5" wide X 13" long, for top of frame. 
Handles: 2 pieces i" thick X i" wide X 15" long. 
Bottom: i piece i" thick X 13" wide X 24^^" long. 
Legs: 4 pieces i^" thick X i^" wide X 32" long. 
Ends: 2 pieces i" thick X 2%" wide X 12" long, allowing i" on each end 

for tenon. 
Drawer: i piece i" thick X i^" wide X 23^" long, for foundation of 



drawer. 



43 



HOME LABOR SAVING DEVICES 

Cleats: 2 pieces i" thick X i" wide X 14" long, to support the drawer. 
I piece I" thick X 2^" wide X 23y2" long, to be used as front to drawer. 

1 piece 3^" thick X 2^" wide X 23^^" long, to be used as back of drawer. 

2 pieces K" thick X 2^" wide X 131^" long, to be used as side of drawer. 
I piece H" thick X 15" wide X 235^" long, to be used as bottom of 
drawer. 

I piece ^" thick X 2^" wide X 31^" long, to be used as partition in 
drawer. 




Shelf: I piece i" thick X 15" wide X 26^" long, to be used as bottom of 
shelf. 

Braces: 2 pieces i" thick X ij^" wide X 12" long, to support ends of 

shelf. 
Brackets: 2 pieces i" thick X 8" wide X 8" long, to be used as a support 

for wheel. 




Roller tray wagon, including compartment for china and a drawer for silver and linen 



DINING ROOM CONVENIENCES 45 

Directions : 

Take the 2 sides (i" X 5" X ssV/') and round each end in the shape of a 
half circle, boring a l" hole in each end of side piece to hold handles 
(i" X i" X is"). Fit bottom on inside of box and nail it. Mortise 3>1" 
from the top of the legs to fit cross' pieces, i" X y/2" X 12". Make a 
%" mortise on the legs 9" from the bottom for the support of the bottom 
shelf. Measure 2^" from the top of the leg to put tenon for the front 
drawer support. Construct the opposite end of the table in the same way. 
The upper top of table, showing the lid and handle, should be fastened 
to top after the table is made. In making the frame for the drawer, 2^" 
deep X 13^" wide X 23^" long, nail the front and back to the sides. 
Then nail the bottom of the drawer to the inside of this frame with 
one partition nailed crosswise the center of the drawer. Place handles 
on the front of the drawer about 3" from each end. Screw on the 2 
pieces placed 9" from bottom of the leg, with 25/2" No. 10 screws. Cut 
the bottom shelf out ij^" at each corner, fit to the legs, and screw. This 
shelf must be stationary. Brackets, i" X 8" X 8", are screwed on at one 
end of the shelf to be used as supports to which the wheels are fastened. 
The drawer may be used for silverware and to keep the linen. The 
side used for silverware should be lined with felt or outing. The table 
should be well dressed by sandpapering, staining, and polishing it. Do not 
varnish it because this does not make so attractive a table as the mission 
stain. 



46 HOME LABOR SAVING DEVICES 

SIDEBOARD 

(Made of Dry Goods Boxes) 

A unique article made of dry goods boxes, which may be used 
in the dining room as a sideboard or in the kitchen as a cupboard. 
Two dry goods boxes are joined together to make the lower 
section, one end on each box being removed to be used as shelves 
in the sideboard. The upper section with its three shelves is 
made from pieces of other boxes. On two of the shelves brass 
hooks are arranged at equal distances apart, on which the cups 
hang. A groove may be made under the lower shelf and on the 
top shelf, in which the small plates and saucers rest. The two 
drawers, made according to dimensions and out of pieces of 
boxes, can be lined with felt or outing flannel to hold the silver- 
v/are. Attractive curtains may be made of some suitable ma- 
terial and hung in front of the upper section. This is especially 
an interesting problem for boys in a school to work out. 

Materials : 

3 large boxes for lower and upper sections of sideboard. 

3 small boxes to be used for drawers. 

2 pairs 1 5^" (butt) hinges to fasten doors. 

Yi lb. 6-penny nails to iDuild sideboard. 

2 metal knobs to be used on lower doors. 

24 brass cup and saucer hooks. 

2 hand bolts to be used on front of drawers. 

Sandpaper and stain. 

Dimensions : Lower Section : 

.Body: 2 boxes 13" deep X 121/2" wide X 26" long. 
Shelves: 2 pieces i" thick X 12" wide X 24" long. 

Cleats: 4 pieces ^" thick X ^" wide X 12" long, to be used under the 
shelves. 

Doors: 4 pieces ^" thick X 2" wide X 26" long, to be used for upright 
pieces. 

4 pieces %" thick X 2" wide X 8" long, to be' used as crosspieces. 
2 pieces ^" thick X 9" wide X 23" long, to be used'as panels. 

Legs: 4 pieces ^" thick X 2?4" wide X 36" long. 
4 pieces ^" thick X 2^" wide X 36" long. 



DINING ROOM CONVENIENCES 



47 



-2 5 



fS) 



TPv 



h-j-'H 



-^^^^•^ K 



=N 




48 HOME LABOR SAVING DEVICES 

Upper Section : . 

Body: i box 5" deep X,i8" wide X 26" long. 

2 small boxes 5" deep X 12" wide X 18" long. 
Drawer: i box 5" deep X 18" wide X 24" long. 

Directions : 

Boxes which can be most easily converted into the desired sections must 
be selected. Two boxes (13" X 12^" X 26") are joined together to 
form the body of the lower section of the sideboard. Remove the ends 
of the boxes, to be used as shelves, using the side of a larger box for 
the top of this section. The shelves are fastened in by 4 cleats (J/2" X 
%" X 12") nailed crosswise the partition and the sides of the section. 
Four strips C/z" X 2^" X 36") and four strips (^" X 2%" X 36") are 
taken from the third box to make the legs of the cabinet. The doors are 
fastened on with hinges, using two metal knobs in front of the doors to 
open them. The foundation of the upper section is made of a box (5" 
deep X 18" X 26"). The three crosspieces used as shelves are made from 
the two small boxes (5" X 12" X 18"). Make the drawer of a box 
(5" X 18" X 24"), putting a partition through the center of the box and 
on the inside if two drawers be desired. Place two hand bolts on the 
front of the drawer. Sandpaper, stain, and polish the sideboard. 




DINING ROOM CONVENIENCES 



SCREEN 

A screen is useful in many ways in the home. It adds a 
great deal to the appearance of a bedroom. By putting it 
around the bed one may often avoid draughts. In the dining 



2' 



Deirciif of Join-t 



2 



IT 
Tl 



.1 

1. 



Si 



^ <0 






room it is indispensable in the front of a serving table while 
the meal is going on. The illustration above shows a two- 
panelled screen which may be easily made in the home, or it 
furnishes good material for a woodwork problem to be used in 



50 HOME LABOR SAVING DEVICES 

the school. It is made of oak and covered with burlap. By 
adding to the number of pieces the third panel may be made 
with ease. 

Materials : 

3 feet of oak. 

% lb. 8-penny nails to be used in making frame. 

3 i" (butt) hinges, with screws, to join panels together. 

I box of brass-headed tacks to fasten burlap to frame. 

Sandpaper arid stain. 

3^ yds. burlap to cover panels. 

Dimensions : 

Frame: 4 pieces i" thick X i" wide X 5' long, to be used for upright 
pieces. 
6 pieces i" thick X i" wide X 2' long, to be used for crosspieces. 

Directions : 

Measure and saw the pieces according to required dimensions. Cut the 
joints and nail the three crosspieces to the two upright pieces. Make the 
other panel in the same way and join the two together with the three 
hinges. Sandpaper, stain, and polish the frame. After it has dried 
thoroughly, cover it with the burlap on the outside, tacking this on with 
the brass-headed tacks. 



CHAPTER III 
PORCH EQUIPMENT 

ICELESS REFRIGERATOR NO. i 

Country homes without ice houses and too far from town to 
have access to manufactured ice may have an iceless refrigerator 
as a good substitute. This convenience comprises a simple wooden 
frame with a covering of canton flannel, burlap, Indian-head 
cloth or linen crash made to fit so that little air is admitted into it. 
Wicks made of the same material as the cover are tacked on top 
of each side of the cover and extend over into the pan of water 
sitting on tOp of the frame. This water is taken up by the wicks 
and carried down on the sides of the cover by capillary attraction 
when evaporation takes place, drawing the heat from the inside 
and lowering the temperature. The more rapid the evaporation, 
the lower the temperature. Tests have shown that if the refrig- 
erator is kept in a place where the air circulates around it freely, 
a temperature of 50 degrees Fahrenheit may be obtained. 

Materials : 

40' of white pine. 

I pair of i^" (butt) hinges to fasten the door. 

I 2" gate hook to close screen door. 

Yt. lb. 5-penny nails to build frame. 

3H yds. wire screening to cover frame. 

4 sq. ft. sheet zinc to make shelves. 
I pt. white paint. 

I can white enamel. 

I square pan for top of refrigerator. 

1 large pan for bottom. 
Sandpaper. 

2 cards of snap hooks and eyes to put on cover. 

5 yds. white canton flannel. 

Dimensions : 

Frame: 4 pieces i/^" thick X 3" wide X 48" long, for upright pieces. 
16 pieces i" thick X i" wide X 16" long, to be used as crosspieces for 
top, bottom, and shelves. 
Door: 2 pieces H" thick X 3" wide X 39" long, for upright pieces. 
2 pieces i" thick X i" wide X 16" long, for crosspieces. 

51 



52 



Top 

Frame .3"' 



/'• 



HOME LABOR SAVING DEVICES 






1^-9 



Pan 






Screen 
Door 



«<3 ' 



c: 



Front 



/S 



d: 






'S^JTT 



\ Pan 



00 






Cover with 
Screen 



Zinc Shelves 



Placed on cleats 



Side 



75- 



z 



PORCH EQUIPMENT 53 



Directions : 

Make the frame 3^/^' high with twelve crosspieces tacked to the four posts, 
nailing the first 4 strips 9" from the bottom of the frame, and the 
remaining 8 strips about 11" apart. An 18J/2" square frame is made of 
wood and nailed on top of the posts. The corners of this square are 
mitered or lapped over and tacked together. Use a biscuit pan to fit in 
top of the square to hold the water. The whole refrigerator should 
stand in a larger pan which catches the drippings from the cover and 
keeps away the insects. The screen door is made 39" long X 16" wide, 
which is joined to the frame with hinges and fastens with a hook. Three 
movable shelves with perforations in them are made of zinc. Cover the 
whole frame with wire screening to protect it from the flies. When the 
frame is finished it should be painted white and enameled. This will 
permit of its being washed every day. A covering of white canton flannel 
is made to fit the screen, with the smooth side out, care being taken that 
the cover comes to the lower edge of the frame. The wicks are made half 
the width of the sides and tacked on the top edge of each side. TTiese 
must be long enough to extend 3" over into the water. Strips of 
canton flannel 2" wide are tacked all around the sides and the top of 
the frame, and the eyes are sewed on these. White tape may be used 
for this purpose if more convenient. Sew one row of hooks on the 
edge of the covering near the latch and the other just opposite the open- 
ing, with the hem to extend far enough over on each side to cover crack 
at the edge of door. This permits the door to be opened without un- 



54 



HOME LABOR SAVING DEVICES 



fastening the hooks, keeping out the warm outside air and at the same 
time retaining the cool air inside the refrigerator. Hook the cov.ering 
around the top also. Place the refrigerator in a shady place where the 
air will circulate around it freely. Keep the wicks in a supply of fresh 
water in the top pan. The water is taken down the sides by capillary at- 
traction, and when evaporation takes place the heat is taken from the 
inside thereby lowering the temperature. 




PORCH EQUIPMENT 55 

ICELESS REFRIGERATOR NO. 2 

Another type of iceless refrigerator which appears more 
crude can be made at a cost of $i.8o. In this a cotton sack is 
used for the covering. This refrigerator has proved more satis- 
factory than one would suppose. The butter and milk from 
several cows has been kept in a model of this type at ten degrees 
cooler than the outside air. It might be well to use cotton flannel 
for the covering instead of ducking because when the cloth is wet 
evaporation takes place more rapidly. 

Materials : 

24/4' yellow pine. 

5^ yds. canton flannel. 

IS lo-penny nails. 

I No. 2 galvanized tub. 

Dimensions : 

Stem: i piece 2" thick X 4" wide X 5" long. 
Shelves: 2 pieces i" thick X 32" wide X 32" long. 

I piece i" thick X 20" wide X 20" long. 
Supports: 2 pieces 2" thick X 4" wide X 18" long to be used as braces for 

the foundation. 
Cleats: 4 pieces 2" thick X 4" wide X 30" long to support shelves. 



56 



HOME LABOR SAVING DEVICES 





PORCH EQUIPMENT 57 

Directions : 

Nail the piece (2" X 4" X 18") on the side of the stem making it even 
with the bottom piece. Saw a 2" base out on the side of the stem and 
nail the other piece measuring 2" X 4" X18" . Measure 25" from the 
bottom of the stem and nail on 2 cleats to support the shelf. Cut space 
in the center of piece (i" X 32" X32") large enough to fit the stem and 
nail it to the cleats, thus making the first shelf. From this point measure 
20" and nail 2 cleats on the stem to support the second shelf (i" X 32" 
■X32"). Measure 13" from the top of the stem and nail on shelf (i" 
X 20" X 20") after cutting an opening (2" X 4") in the center of shelf. 
The curtain is made of 4 widths of the canton flannel measuring 66" in 
length with a draw string put at the top and bottom of the curtain. This 
makes the refrigerator dust and fly proof. 



58 



HOME LABOR SAVING DEVICES 



UMBRELLA STAND 

A good problem to be used in woodwork classes in the school 
or to be made by boys in the home. It will be found appropriate 
and useful in the reception hall or on the porch. It is built of 
dry goods boxes, with a five-cent pan used in the bottom to catch 
the drippings from the umbrellas. 

Materials : 

I box 9" deep X 12" wide X 30" high. 

J4 lb. eight-penny nails to make the frame. 

I small round tin pan to fit in bottom of the stand. 

Sandpaper and stain. 




Dimensions : 

4 pieces ^" thick X 2>4" wide X 30" long, to be used as upright pieces. 
4 pieces Ya," thick X 2J4" wide X 30" long, to be used as upright pieces. 
6 pieces Yi" thick X 3" wide X 12" long, to be used as crosspieces. 
6 pieces ^" thick X 3" wide X 11" long, to be used as crosspieces. 
Bottom: i piece 12" thick X 12" wide X 12" long. 



Directions : 

Make three boxes of the six pieces (H" X 3" X 12") and six pieces (H" 
X 3" X 11"), putting the bottom, 12" square, on the bottom box to be 



PORCH EQUIPMENT 



59 




L-. 



^--• 



t 

t 



-/2 



A 






J 

LJl 



60 HOME LABOR SAVING DEVICES 

used as foundation of the frame. Make a hole in this bottom large enough 
to hold a round tin pan. This hole should be cut before nailing the piece 
on the bottom of the box. Nail the four long pieces (measuring 
J4" X 2^/x" X 30") on the end of the three boxes, placing the boxes 
seven inches apart on the frame. Nail four pieces (measuring ^" X 
25^" X 30") on the ends of the boxes to extend one-fourth inch over the 
first four strips which were nailed on the boxes. Sandpaper, stain, and 
polish. 



PORCH EQUIPMENT 



61 



BLACKING BOX 

A necessary and useful home convenience made of a box, 
with a cover made in two sections and joined with hinges. It is 
a time-saver to the busy housewife who has to go so often in 
search for blacking and polish before she can get the children 
ready for school. It serves as a reminder to the busy farmer 
who is disposed to go to town or to church before giving his 
shoes a dressing. 




Materials : 

« 

I box. 

Y2 lb. six-penny nails to construct box. 
I pair i^" (butt) hinges to fasten top. 
Sandpaper and stain. 

Dimensions : 

Body: 5^" deep X 1354" wide X 14^" long (inside measurements). 
Top: 2 pieces H" thick X 8" wide X 6^" long. 
Legs: 4 pieces ^" thick X i^" wide X 13^" long. 
4 pieces ^" thick X i^" wide X 13^" long. 

Directions : 

Remove the cover from box (5^" deep X 13^4" >^ 14/4") and nail the 
legs on, making them seven inches longer than the outside depth of the 
■ box. Nail one half of the cover on top of box, allowing it to project 
evenly all round the edge of the box. Fasten the other half of the cover 
to this half with hinges. Sandpaper, stain, and polish. 



62 



HOME LABOR SAVING DEVICES 



-/6^ 



^. 



Front 






L 


1 — f — T 

\ End \ 


T? 




MIV 








f 





r 



^ 



Cover Remoi^ea 



^ 

N 



•/VJ 



fe 



^ 



PORCH EQUIPMENT 



63 



TOWEL ROLLER 

A towel roller built so simply that any boy on the farm would 
take pleasure in working out the problem. It is much easier to 
keep a clean towel in the right place when the proper place is 
provided for the towel to be kept. This convenience should be 
a joy to every tired farmer when he comes in to partake of a 
meal. Again, the tendency of all children to throw the towels 
about the place is a great nuisance to the housewife. This rack 
provides that the towel be sewed together and placed on the 
roller, which is then slipped into the groove made to hold it. 




Materials : 

3' of poplar. 

%. lb. S-penny nails. 

Sandpaper and stain. 



Dimensions : 

Foundation: 1 piece 54" thick X 5" wide X 24" long, to which the brackets 

are nailed. 
Brackets: 2 pieces 5" thick. X 5" wide X 5" long. 
Rod: I piece 1^4" thick X i^" wide X 24" long. 



64 HOME LABOR SAVING DEVICES 

Directions : 

The brackets are made any desired shape, with a hole a half-inch in diame- 
ter bored in the centre of each piece. A slit is cut in one bracket from the 
hole to the top for the end of the rod to slip in and out. Round the 
piece (.1%" X i^" X 24") for the rod. At each end cut a tenon one 
inch in diameter. Nail the end pieces to the board (54" X 5" X 24"). 
Insert the rod into the hole in the one end piece and slip it into the slit 
at the other end. Sandpaper, stain, and polish. 



PORCH EQUIPMENT 



65 



PORCH SWING 
An inexpensive mission sfyle swing made of oak with space 
long enough for two to sit in and broad enough to be used for 
lounging purposes. A pad made of burlap and stuffed with an 
old discarded quilt will add to the comfort of the swing. 




Dimensions : 

Frame: 4 pieces, %" thick X 3" wide X 43" long for rails in frame. 

2 pieces, ^" thick X 3" wide X 22" long for ends of frame. 
Posts: 2 pieces, 1%" thick X ?" wide X 19" long for front posts. 

4 pieces ry^" thick X 2" wide X 233^" long for arms and back posts. 
Slats: 14 pieces ^" thick X 3" wide X 14" long for back and end slats. 

16 pieces ]4" thick X 3" wide X 20" long for slats in seat. 
Cleats: 2 pieces %" thick X 2" wide X 48" long. 

DmECTioNS : 

Mortise the end posts for the back and the front, also arm posts. Mortise 
the back and front and end rails of the frame to fit the end posts. Nail 
and glue them into position. Round the edges of the seat slats and nail 
to cleats on the front and back of the frame. Mortise the back and end 
slats, fitting them into the rails and frame and fasten with strong glue. 
Use support made of iron and fastened to the seat with screws to give 
strength to the mortises formed at the arms and front posts. The chains 
to suspend the swing are fastened to holes made in these iron supports. 
Make the back of the swing first, then the ends and front, nailing the seat 
slats in after the glue has fastened the mortises securely together. 
5 



66 



HOME LABOR SAVING DEVICES 







CHAPTER IV 
MISCELLANEOUS EQUIPMENT 





A DUSTLESS MOP 

A cheap and efficient article for the 
housewife is a mop made of old stock- 
ings and the handle of an old, discarded 
broom. This mop may be used success- 
fully for polished and painted floors as 
well as for unpolished floors. It is made 
by cutting the straw off of a broom 
which has worn out. This is cut even 
with the wires which hold the straw on 
the handle. Cover this part of the 
broom with an old stocking, which is 
tacked to the handle securely by sew- 
ing it around two or three times with 
a double thread. Legs of old stockings 
are cut twelve inches long with these 
strips cut leaving a band two inches 
wide to sew tO' the covering of the 
broom. Sew them round and round 
the surface in rows about an inch apart, 
until the mop has been made the desired 
thickness. Dip the mop into a solution 
made of one-half a cupful of melted 
paraffin and one cupful of coal oil. 
When the mop is not in use, it must 
be wrapped up and kept in a paper 
bag in order to keep it moist. 



67 



68 HOME LABOR SAVING DEVICES 

FOLDING CANNING TABLE 

The table shown in this illustration is made of poplar and 
designed especially for the Canning Club agent. It folds up and 
requires little space, which makes it convenient to take around 
during the canning season. The top is zinc-lined to make it 
more durable and sanitary. In the center an opening is made 
to hold the bucket which catches the parings from the vegetables 
or fruits. On the left side is an adjustable zinc-lined trough to 
hold the vegetables or fruits while preparing them for use. This 
will save many steps in going to and from the basket to get these 
things. A hole is bored in the trough, to which is attached a 
small pipe that allows the water with which the vegetables or 
fruits have been washed to run off. 

Materials : 

18J/2 ft. of poplar. 

y^ lb. No. 5 box nails to nail trough on table. 

60 three-penny box nails tO' nail the zinc on top of table. 

16 No. 5 screws, ^", to fasten the legs on table. 

2 pairs of 2" (butt) hinges to hinge legs on table. 

6 3" gate hooks to hook on legs and trough. 

6^ lbs. 28-gage zinc to cover the top of table. 

I pail to fit in hole 9" in diameter. 

Dimensions : 

Top: I piece %" thick X 24" wide X 44" long. 

Bottom: i piece %" thick X 10" wide X 34" long, to be used as bottom 

shelf. 
Crosspieces: 2 pieces %" thick X 4" wide X 20^" long, to be hinged on 

the top of the table. 

2 pieces %" thick X ly^" wide X 15^^" long, to be used as braces for 

bottom shelf. 
Legs: 4 pieces i^" thick X ly^" wide X 27^" long. 

Braces: 2 pieces ^4" thick X i^" wide X 2^" long, to support top piece. 
Trough: i piece 6" thick X sy^" wide X 24" long. 

I piece 6" thick X 6" wide X 24" long. 
Hole: yi" thick X 9" wide X 9" long, for opening in center of table. 

Directions : 

Measure 4 inches from each end of the top and fasten the two crosspieces 
(54" thick X 1I/2" wide X 20^" long) putting one on each end to brace 



MISCELLANEOUS EQUIPMENT 



69 




T 

k 



h»'-4^ 



70 



HOME LABOR SAVING DEVICES 



. the top of the table. These crosspieces must also be put at equal dis- 
tances from the sides of the top. Screw the legs on these two pieces, 
using the crosspieces (%" X i}^" X i5/^") as braces for the legs. Use 
two gate hooks on each end of table to support the legs when the table is 
unfolded. The bottom shelf (%" X lo" X 34") is placed crosswise on 
the braces and 9" from the bottom of legs. This shelf is not to be 
stationary, for it has to be removed when the table is unfolded. Bore a hole 
9" in diameter in the center of table to hold the bucket. Fasten the trough, 
after it has been completed, on the left side of the table with two gate 
hooks. Cover the top of the table with the zinc, using the 60 3-penny 
nails to tack it on the top. Sandpaper, stain, and polish the table. 




MISCELLANEOUS EQUIPMENT 



71 



FLY TRAP 

This trap as described below is not only good for the house 
and the back porch, where so many flies are attracted by the odor 
of the foods, but also excellent for use out of doors. It is in- 
expensive and can be easily made at home. Much of the success 
of the trap depends upon the bait used. There are many kinds of 
baits recommended, such as a plate of vinegar with sugar scattered 
around it, banana skins, syrups, and meat. The bait is placed 
beneath the cone in a saucer, which rests on the bottom board of 




the trap. The flies then enter the cone and are destroyed by smok- 
ing before being removed through the hole in the top. If a 
poisonous bait is used the smoking is not necessary. 

Materials : 
3' of poplar. 
12 5-penny box nails. 
I small box of 3 oz. tacks. 
I }i" No. 5 screw. 
2j^ yds. of wire netting, 24" wide. 

Dimensions : 

Top: I piece i" thick X 16" wide X 16" long. 
Bottom: i piece i" thick X 16" wide X 16" long. 
Cover: 1 piece %" thick X i^" wide X 25/^" long. 
Braces: 3 pieces %" thick X i" wide X 24^" long. 
Cone: 8" high and 12" in diameter at bottom. 



72 



HOME LABOR SAVING DEVICES 



^Brace 



Brace 




PMJZKH OF INSIDE CONE 



^\D^ \/IEW 
/e' — 




Opemni^ 



BOTTOM 



MISCELLANEOUS EQUIPMENT 73 



Directions : 



Take one piece (i" X i6" X i6") and find the center, using a radius of 
8" to make a circle for the bottom of the trap. Then use a radius of 6" 
to make an opening in the bottom on which the cone fits. An 
opening of i" X 2" is made at some convenient point in the bottom of trap 
through which the dead flies are removed. Take a piece of wood 
(J4" ^ i/^" ^ 2J/2") and make a cover to fit over this opening. Fasten 
it on the bottom with a screw so that it may be easily turned. Make the 
cone of a piece of wire netting 10" wide. It must fit the inside circle 
in the bottom as shown in the illustration. Tack this to the bottom with 
3-0Z. tacks. The top of the trap is made just like the bottom using the 
same radius. Cut out 3 places in the top and bottom for the braces 
(^" X i" X 24%") to fit in. These must extend ^" below the bottom and 
nailed in place with S-penny box nails. Cover the opening in the top 
with a piece of wire netting 13" in diameter. The whole frame is then 
covered with the 24" wire netting. 



74 



HOME LABOR SAVING DEVICES 



GARBAGE BARREL 

The problem of the quickest disposal of the kitchen refuse for 
the housekeeper is one of great consideration. The garbage barrel, 
as shown in the illustration, is a solution for this problem, in 
that it is put between rails with a wheel. The garbage may thus 
be rolled away as many times a day as necessary, with a minimum 
amount of effort. A covered receptacle promotes sanitation 
around the back premises. The size of this convenience varies 
with trie material available for making the device and with the 
size of the family. 




Materials : 

lo' of oak. 

8 3H" ^ H" carriage bolts. 

I barrel wheel 14" in diameter. 

Dimensions : 

Rails: 2 pieces i" thick X 6" wide X 28" long, to be used to hold the 

barrel in place. 
Handles: 2 pieces 1/2" thick X 2^4" wide X 5" long. 



Directions : 



Measure and saw the handles the right dimensions. Taper them at one end 
as shown in the illustration. Fasten the rails to the handles with the 
eight (3^" X %") bolts, making the front rail shorter than the back 
one. The opening between the rails must fit the barrel at the bottom 
hoop. Attach the wheel, 14" in diameter, to the smaller end of the two 
handles. 



MISCELLANEOUS EQUIPMENT 



75 



THE SCRUBBING CHARIOT 
A clever little device which consists of a comfortable padded 
frame which permits the woman to do her scrubbing with more 
ease and comfort and saves her from taking many unnecessary 
steps. To the left it has a stand for the soap, and on the right 
may be placed a wire hoop to hold the bucket of water while 
scrubbing. This will be found more useful to the woman 
who has not access to the more modern conveniences used for 
scrubbing. 




Materials : 
2^' poplar. 

4 flat trunk rollers for bottom of chariot. 
% lb. 8-penny nails to be used in making frame. 
I box brass-headed tacks to be used in putting padding in bottom of 

chariot. 
I soap holder. 
I yard burlap to make the padding. 

Dimensions : 

Bottom: i piece Y^" thick X lo" wide X 20" long. 
Front: 1 piece ^" thick X 4" wide X 20" long. 
Sides: 2 pieces 5^" thick X 4" wide X 10" long. 

Directions : 

Nail the sides to the bottom board. Fit the front piece to this and nail to 
the bottom and sides. Four flat rollers are screwed on the bottom, and 
the frame sandpapered, stained, and polished. A cushion made of the 
burlap and stuffed with excelsior, a piece of an old comfort, or cotton, is 
tacked in the bottom with the brass-headed tacks. Tack the soap stand 
on the left side of the chariot and an iron hoop to the right, if so desired. 
A soip box or cheese box may be used to advantage in making this device 
if one side is knocked out and the three remaining sides cut down to the 
height of 5". 



76 



HOME LABOR SAVING DEVICES 




^J 


s- 


\D 


•^ 


Vi) 


^ 


Ho 


a 


fQ 




^k 



O/ > 



—5^ 



O 






.0) 
So 



MISCELLANEOUS EQUIPMENT 

SEWING SCREEN 



77 



An effort to minimize the " ups and downs " of the busy 
woman when she finds a few precious moments to do fancy work 
or to read. It is an accessible device, consisting of a Hght frame, 
covered with burlap, with conveniently arranged pockets and 



S- 



i: 



'l-*^^- 



Drop Door 
ForShelF 

SnelF Brace 
^' \Hinge 



Tack Burlap 

in this 
Space and 



/6 



5 1 . 



R I R I W 



Z Z Z 1 

Fasten Cloth 
Pockets on 
Burlap 



/6 



i^tA 









1 



X 



other useful features. It is of a convenient height to be lifted 
from place to place with a little effort ; or it may be put on casters 
and rolled around. Its position near the tired woman's chair 
will cause her to feel an eternal warmth toward the designer, for 
she will find somewhere on its hooks, shelf, or in its pockets the 
very thing needed when with a sigh of relief she has taken her seat. 



78 



HOME LABOR SAVING DEVICES 



Materials : 

lo' of poplar. 

22 No. i6 brads, ^", for nailing joints. 

2^ pairs of i^" (butt) hinges to be used in joining the panels, fasten- 
ing the drop shelf to crosspiece, and adjusting the bracket. 
20 No. 5 flat-headed screws, Y?,", used for hinges. 

2 metal handles to put on top of each side of screen. 

4 No. 5 screws, J^", to put handles on. 

2 yds. burlap to cover the screen. 

I box brass-headed tacks to put burlap on screen. 

6 brass cup hooks to be used on crosspiece. 

I yd. of creton to make pockets. 
Sandpaper and stain. 

Dimensions: 

Stiles: 4 pieces 54" thick X 254" wide X 30" long, to be used as upright 
pieces to screen. 




Crosspieces: 4 pieces ^" thick X 3" wide X 12^" long, to be used at the 
top and bottom of frame. 

2 pieces ^" thick X ij4" wide X 12^" long, to be used for pegs to hold 
spools. 
I piece ^" thick X i>^"wide X 12^" long, to hinge the shelf on. 

Directions : 

On the two upright pieces (3^" X 2%" X 30") make 4 ?4" mortises to fit 
the tenons made on the crosspieces, making the first mortise i" from the 
bottom of the frame and the second mortise 16^" from the first. The 
third and fourth mortises in the upright piece are made 2%" apart and 



MISCELLANEOUS EQUIPMENT 79 

the third the same distance from the top. The other upright piece to the 
panel is treated in the same way. On two of these crosspieces there 
are nailed, at equal distances apart, little pegs to hold the spools. Cup 
hooks are fastened on the under side of one crosspiece to hold the bags. 
Make the other panel of the screen in the same way, only making mortises 
and tenons for three crosspieces instead of four. The first crosspiece on 
this panel is put i" from the bottom; the second, i6^" from the first; and 
the third piece 4H" from the second. Hinge the drop door on the top edge 
of the last crosspiece and hinge the bracket to support the drop door in 
the center of crosspiece. Put the handles on each screen with the 4 Yi" No. 
5 screws.' Hinge the two panels together and cover the outside of screen 
burlap, using the brass-headed tacks for this purpose. The frame must be 
sandpapered, stained, and polished before the burlap and pockets are put 
on. The creton pockets are put on the inside of screen about halfway 
the panel. 



80 HOME LABOR SAVING DEVICES 

A HOMEMADE SHOWER' BATH 

A cheap but convenient arrangement to be used in any home 
for giving shov^er baths where the other fixtures are not to be 
had. This may be used to a greater advantage in country homes 
where there are many Httle children. They would find joy in the 
use of same. 

Materials : 

I 4-gallon tin bucket 
I medium size zinc tub. 

1 nozzle with 6' rubber tubing. 

2 pulleys with i staple. 

I piece of piping 2" long. 

I clothes pin. 

12' rope. 

I pint white paint. 

I pint white enamel. 

Directions : 

Cut a hole in the 4-gallon water bucket in the center of the bottom. On 
this opening solder the piece of piping, 2" long. Attach to the end of this 
piece of pipe the 6' of rubber tubing with the nozzle on the other end. 
The sprinkler from a watering can may be substituted for the nozzle if 
not convenient to get one. Tie a piece of rope to the handle of the bucket 
and run it through a pulley which is fastened to the ceiling with a staple. 
Have another staple put in the joist below the window sash and run the 
rope through it also. This allows the bucket to be raised or lowered to suit 
the convenience of the person taking the shower. A hook is placed below 
the staple in the window joist, which holds the bucket in place when not in 
use. The flow of the water is adjusted by the use of a clothes pin operated 
on the rubber tubing. Use a medium size zinc tub to stand in while taking 
the shower. It makes the whole shower bath more attractive to paint the 
bucket and tub white and then enamel them. 



MISCELLANEOUS EQUIPMENT 



81 




82 HOME LABOR SAVING DEVICES 

WATERWORKS OUTFIT FOR THE HOME 

The following illustration shows a simple but cheap arrange- 
ment for a practical Water system to be used in the farm home. 

A few minutes pumping each morning by the man of the 
family will provide a supply of water for the day's use, or, where 
there is no force pump, the water may be brought in pails until 
the barrel is filled every day. While not the most satisfactory 
plan for putting water into the home, it is far better than having 
to carry the water from a pump or often from a spring which is 
a long distance 'from the house. It is a labor- and time-saving 
device for the farm woman and enables her to do more efficient 
work in every way. 

Materials : 

I force pump. 

loo' of 1 34" galvanized iron pipe for suction. 

Foot valve for suction pipe. 

I piece of rubber hose. 

I tight coupling to bear weight of hose at barrel opening. 

i" thick boards to build platform. 

I 6o-gallon water tight barrel. 

Yz" water pipe to connect barrel with faucet. 

xVz" faucet. 

I sink (i8" X 30"). 

so' of i^" lead pipe to be used for S-trap. 

SO ft. 4" drain pipe. 

Directions : 

Pump. Bore a hole about 2" below the lid of the barrel. This must be 
large enough to permit the piece of coupling to fit in it tightly. It is not 
necessary to use the coupling but it will give a better support to the hose. 
Fasten one end of the hose to the coupling and the other end to the pump. 
On the opposite side bore a hole with a ^" auger and attach the Yz" piece 
of water pipe to it. 

Shelf.: Raise the barrel to the platform, which is made of i" boards, and 
well braced underneath. This platform is fastened to the house just out- 
side of the kitchen. It must be put higher than the kitchen sink in order 
to obtain pressure enough to give a steady flow of water. A tight-fitting 
lid is placed on top of the barrel to keep out the trash and the insects. 
Fasten the faucet to the ^" pipe on the barrel which extends through 
an opening made in the wall. 

Sink: Place the sink, supported by brackets, on the inside of the kitchen 
wall and at a convenient height from the floor for the woman to com- 
fortably use. 

Drainage: Fit the S-trap to the 4" drain pipe to carry off the water from 
the sink. 




A pi^rtable poultry house, showing the exterior and interior 



MISCELLANEOUS EQUIPMENT 



83 






CHAPTER V 
POULTRY DEVICES 

POULTRY HOUSE 

A portable house placed on runners is shown in the following 
cut. It can be easily moved by four men carrying it, or be drawn by 
hitching a horse to the ends of the runners. A house of this type 
has many advantages over the stationary house because it can be 
moved into the field after the grain is cut, into the orchard, and 
into the different fields where the chickens can get plenty of fresh 
green food. / 

Materials : 

Use. Size No. of Length Board 

pieces measure 

Sills (runners) 4" X 6" 2 12' 48' 

Joists 2" X 4" 3 14' 28' 

Studs and braces 2" X 3" 13 12' 78' 

Rafters 2" X 4" 3 16' 32' 

Total 186' 

%" Matched flooring (floor and sides) 340' 

%" Sheathing, surfaced one side 100' 

Roofing paper, i roll. 
Windows, hardware, etc. 

Directions : 

A good location is the first consideration in the building of a poultry house. 
* Select a well drained spot, facing the southeast and large enough to make 
comfortable quarters for the chickens. 

The house is built of any kind of durable and well-seasoned lumber. The 
kind of material used in making the floor will depend largely on the soil 
and the money to be spent in the construction of the house. Board floors 
are often used but they are more susceptible to rats. Cement floors are 
more easily cleaned and more sanitary, and not so expensive in a locality 
where plenty of gravel is available. A board floor must be raised several 
inches from the ground as a protection from rats and to allow for runners 
to be placed underneath the house. 

Roosts are placed on the same level with each other next to the end or back 
walls and from 6" to 10" above the dropping boards, which are 2^" from 
the floor. Roosts may be stationary as in the cut, or they may be 
84 



POULTRY DEVICES 85 

fastened by hinges to the walls and raised to clean the dropping board. 
Roost spacing will depend upon the size of the fowls, but a lo" space to 
each fowl is usually sufficient. They must be put 15" apart. 
Nests made 14" square are built under the dropping boards around the 
walls of the house as shown in cut. A 4" piece of wood is placed on the 
side, which drops as a door in front of the nests. 

Windows as shown in the cut are more expensive and not as good as a 
front made of wood extending about 2' from the bottom. Wire screen- 
ing, admitting better ventilation and more sunlight, is tacked over the 
rest of the opening in the front. A curtain may be made of unbleached 
mushn and fastened on a pole at the top of the open front, which may be 
lowered as a protection in bad weather. 

Make the roof of some water tight material and cover the walls on the 
inside to protect the fowls from draughts. 

Nests. — Comfortable and convenient quarters must be fur- 
nished the sitting hen. The location of the nest must be in a 
quiet, dark place to keep the hen from becoming restless. A box 
fifteen inches square and twelve inches high, with a narrow strip 
four to five inches wide at the bottom of the open front of the box, 
makes a comfortable nest. Barrels or half-barrels or nests made 
of a piece of sod will also be comfortable quarters for the sitting 
hen. The nests must be well lined with hay, straw, or excelsior. 
Both the nests and the hen must be thoroughly dusted with insect 
powder before the sitting time comes. 

Hatching and Rearing. — There are two methods used in the 
hatching and rearing of chickens — the natural, when the chicks 
are hatched and reared by a hen, and the artificial, when they are 
hatched in incubators and brooded in houses indoors or out-of- 
doors. The natural method will be found to be more satisfactory 
when dealing with a small number of chickens. A small number 
of hens, if managed with system and care, will produce a large 
number of chickens at a very small cost. 

Care must be taken in the selection of the eggs to be used 
for hatching purposes. Select well-formed eggs which are regular 
in shape and size and which are neither too large nor too small. 
They should come from healthy hens of one breed and should be 
smooth and of one color. Eggs must be kept in a dry, cool place 
and at a temperature of from fifty to sixty degrees Fahrenheit. 
The fertility of an egg weakens with age ; so they must be kept 



86 



HOME LABOR SAVING DEVICES 



only a few days before they are to be set. The number of eggs 
to be put under each hen will vary with the season, the size of the 
hen, and the size of the eggs; but it is usually safe to put about 
thirteen eggs under a hen of average size. 

Egg Tester. — Test the eggs in a dark room on the seventh and 
fourteenth days for the removal of infertile eggs. This may be 
done by a very simple home-made tester made of a pasteboard 
or wooden box, with a hole the size of an egg bored in the front, 
and an opening in the top through which the smoke is to pass. 
If a wooden box with a bottom is used, an opening must be made 




in front, with a door so as to put the lamp in. A box without a 
bottom may be used and simply set right over the lamp. Either 
a lamp, candle, or lantern may be used on the inside of the box. 
Holding the tgg in front of the box and letting the light shine 
through it will show the condition of the tgg. An infertile tgg 
will be clear, while a fertile egg has a spider-like center with 
threads leading out from it. All infertile eggs must be removed. 

Poultry is classified as the egg breeds, the meat breeds, the 
general-purpose breeds, and the ornamental breeds. 

The egg breeds are small fowls which mature quickly. They 



POULTRY DEVICES 87 

are very active, but not good chickens to be used for setting pur- 
poses. They are good layers, and they lay a great many white- 
shelled eggs, for which there is a great demand on some markets. 
The age of maturity for this breed is from four and one-half 
to five months. The Leghorns and the Minorcas are the principal 
representatives of this breed. The single-combed white Leghorn 
has been the most popular. 

The meat breeds are large fowls with long necks and heavy 
coats of feathers ; and they lay a comparatively small number of 
brown-shelled eggs. They are slow in movement, with little 
desire to forage. They make fine mothers^ and for this reason 
they make good fowls to be used for setting. The Brahmas, 
Cochins, and Langshanks are the principal fowls of this breed. 

The general-purpose breeds occupy a medium place between 
the egg and meat breeds as to size, egg production, and meat pro- 
duction. For these characteristics they are especially recom- 
mended to the farmer who wishes both egg and meat fowls. They 
lay a number of brown-shelled eggs and they make splendid 
mothers. The Plymouth Rocks, Wyandottes, Orphingtons, and 
Rhode Island Reds are the best varieties of this breed. 

The ornamental breeds are ornamental both in character and 
purpose, and for this reason they are not practical for use on the 
farm. 

Feeding. — ^The farmer has often become discouraged by the 
elaborate rations which are recommended by poultrymen to be 
used in feeding the chickens. While some of the by-products of 
industries, such as Linseed Meal and Meat Meal are necessary, 
most of the feed used in poultry raising may be raised on the 
farm.. It is well to be familiar with the different values of foods 
fed to the chickens, for they like a change in their rations, and it 
is necessary that they have it. If the food contains too much fat, 
the hens will become too fat, which will lessen their usefulness as 
egg producers; while if the food contains too much protein, some 
symptoms of indigestion will result. It is hard to determine the 
right amount of fat and protein to be fed to the chickens, for 
this varies to suit conditions and the purpose for which it is fed. 



88 HOME LABOR SAVING DEVICES 

Broad Ration Food Available 

Protein Fat 

2 parts wheat bran. 244 .906 

I part wheat middlings 128 .607 

1 part cornmeal 079 .764 

Vio part meat meal 066 .033 

.517 2.310 

Ratio 1 : 4-4 

Narrow Ration Food Available 

Protein Fat 

2 parts wheat bran 244 .906 

I part wheat mids 128 .607 

Vio part linseed meal .029 .048 

1. 10 part meat meal 066 .033 

.467 1-594 

Ratio 1 : 3.4 

Young chicks should be fed a dry or wet feed forty-eight hours 
after they are hatched. Nature has already provided them with 
yolk of egg, which must be digested before they are given more 
food. : Their first feed must be fine grit or a drink of sour milk. 
In two hours after the first feeding they may be given dry oat 
flakes with an tgg which has been boiled for an hour, or a Johnny 
cake made of ten parts of cornmeal, two parts of wheat middlings, 
two parts of wheat bran, mixed with skimmed milk and baked. 
Change this diet after a week to a dry ration— for example, two 
parts of cracked wheat, two parts of oat flakes, four parts of 
cracked corn, one part of rice, and one part of millet. Plenty 
of green food and sour milk should be fed to them. Feed them 
often, but in small proportions. Let them take plenty of exercise. 
It is important to keep the hen up and allow the chicks to run out 
until they are weaned. 



POULTRY DEVICES 89 

DRY MASH HOPPER NO. i 

There are many kinds of dry mash hoppers on the market but 
it is difficult to find one that is not wasteful. This hopper which 
is made of poplar is easily made and it has been found to be very 
successful. It may be built of the desired length and made to 
hold the required amount of dry mash. The most important 
detail in the building of this hopper is the slope of the bottom 
which must be at an angle of forty-five degreed with the wall of 
the henhouse. It must be built well off the floor with a roost 
placed for the hens to stand on while they are feeding. This will 
keep the litter out of the hopper. The wire netting must be of 
one-quarter inch square mesh which is fastened to the hopper and 
stretched to the bottom of the trough at its lowest point. 

Materials : 

12^' poplar. 

1 lb. 6-penny nails. 
i6 %" No. 8 screws. 
32 No. 10 screws. 

2 pairs of ij4" (butt) hinges. 
I piece of 34" inesh wire. 

2" X 2" gate hooks. 

Dimensions : 

Body: 2 pieces i" thick X 5" wide X 26" long, to be used as the ends of 

the hopper. 

2 pieces i" thick X 9" wide X 19" long, to be used as the top and the 

bottom of the hopper. 

I piece i" thick X 19" wide X 26" long, to be used as back of the hopper. 

I piece i" thick X 19" wide X 17" long, to be used as front of hopper. 
Trough: 1 piece x" thick X 4" wide X 19" long, to be used as front of 

trough. 

1 piece i" thick X 5" wide X 19" long, to be used as the hd in the front 
of trough. 

2 pieces i" thick X 4" wide X 9" long, to be used as sides of trough. 
Roost: I piece i" thick X 2" wide X 21" long, to be used as front of the 

roost. 

2 pieces i" thick X 2" wide X 15" long, to be used as sides of roost. 

Directions : 

Take the two end pieces (i" X 5" X 26") and cut the tops at an angle of 
60 degrees and the bottom of these ends at an angle of 45 degrees. Nail 
the bottom piece (i" X 9" X 19") to these end pieces and then nail on the 
back (i" X 9" X 26"). 



90 



HOME LABOR SAVING DEVICES 




h^M 




2.6" 



POULTRY DEVICES 



91 



The front piece (i" X 19" X 17") is then nailed on the hopper. 
The two end pieces (i" X 4" X 9") to be used on the trough are cut at an 
angle of forty-five degrees at one end and nailed on each side of the 
bottom of the hopper as shown in the illustration. Then the front of 
the trough (i" X 4" X 19") is nailed to the sides. Tack the wire mesh 
over the opening in the trough and hinge the front piece (i" X 5" X 19") 
on the front of the trough with one pair of i V2' (butt) hinges. 
The other pair of hinges is used to fasten the top (i" X 9" X 19") on the 
hopper. 

Make the roost by nailing the two sides (i" X 2" X 15") to the front 
(i" X 2" X 21") ■ Fasten this frame on the sides of the hopper with two 
two-inch gate hooks as shown in illustration. 

The hopper when completed is fastened to the sides of the wall of the hen- 
house with thirty-two number ten screws at a convenient height to the 
chickens. 




92 HOME LABOR SAVING DEVICES 

DRY MASH HOPPER NO. 2 
This model is constructed very much Hke the hopper already- 
described with the exception of the four compartments which 
provide for a balanced ration for the chickens. It is not nailed 
to the wall but rests on the floor. 

Materials : 

12^5/2' poplar. 

I lb. 6-penny nails. 

8 ^" No. 8 screws. 

I pair of lYz" steel butts. 

I oz. No. 16 wire staples. 

12" of No. 4 mesh wire 36" wide. 

Dimensions : 

Body: 2 pieces i" thick X 6" wide X 2' 8" long to be used as sides of 

the hopper. 
I piece i" thick X 6" wide X 16" long to be used as bottom of the hopper. 

1 piece i" thick X i' 8" wide X 2' 8" long to be used as back of hopper. 

2 pieces i" thick X 2" wide X i' 8" long and i" thick X 6" wide X i' S*' 
long to be used as the lid of the hopper. 

1 piece i" thick X i' 8" wide X 2' long to be used as front of hopper. 

3 pieces i" thick X 6" wide X 2' 6" long to be used as partitions for 
making the equal compartments in the hopper. 

Trough: 2 pieces i" thick X 4" wide X 10" long to be used as ends 
of trough. 

2 pieces i" thick X 4" wide X i' 8" long to be used as front and back 
of trough. 

3 pieces i" thick X 4" wide X 4" long to be used as partitions in the 
• trough, making four equal compartrnents. 

Directions : 

Nail the two end pieces (i" X 6" X 2' 8") to the bottom piece 
(i" X 6" X 16" ). Then nail the back piece (i" X i' 8" X 2' 8") and the 
front piece (i" X i' 8" X 2' 4") to the ends of the hopper. Nail the 
partitions (i" X 6" X 2' 6" ) to the back and front of the hopper making 
four equal compartments. 

The trough is made by nailing the two end pieces (i" X 4" X 10") to the 
side of the hopper. Nail the front (i" X 4" X i' 8") and the 
back (i" X 4" X i' 8") to the ends of the trough. The partitions 
(i" X 4" X 10") are nailed to the front and back of the trough, making 
four equal compartments. Cover the opening in the front of the trough 
with 12" of No. 4 mesh wire 36" wide. 



POULTRY DEVICES 



93 



Hinge the two top pieces (i" X 2" X i' 8" and i" X 6" X i'8") together 
with one pair of lYz" steel (butt) hinges. Then nail this top piece to the 
back of the hopper with the narrow strip even with the edge of the top 
end of the back. 




94 



HOME LABOR SAVING DEVICES 



l^4"-*| 


1 








--- 



















"": 










rr^ ' " " ' ' ' 


























• • 


. - • rr 


"T^ 


























• • * ' * 


s 


m 


. 




— 










•. • ■ * ' 




^ 


■^ 







Z'<5" 



T" 



o> 




■4"- 







6". 



Oo 



13 



POULTRY DEVICES 95 

RACK FOR OAT-SPROUTING TRAYS 

The importance of giving poultry green feed throughout the 
year cannot be over-emphasized. This sprouting tray is very con- 
venient in order that this food be furnished the chickens. It is a 
simple construction, made of yellow pine, and a device that can 
be made by any farmer at a minimtim cost. It is advisable to lay 
off all the material before beginning to build the rack, to avoid 
confusion in the measurements. 

Materials : 

22,V2 feet of yellow pine. 

28 lbs. of 28-gage galvanized metal to make sprouting trays. 
I lb. 8-penny nails for building rack. 

Dimensions : 

Top: 2 pieces i" thick X 2" wide X 2' 6" long. 
Bottom: 2 pieces i" thick X 2" wide X 2' 6" long. 
Corners: 4 pieces 2" thick X 4" wide X 6" long for upright corners. 
Brace: 1 piece i" thick X 2" wide X 6' 6" long. 

Cleats: 14 pieces i" thick X 2" wide X 2' 6" long, to hold trays of same 
proportions. 

Directions : 

Take 2 upright pieces (2" X4 " X 6") and nail to bottom (i" X 2 " X 2' 6"). 

Measure a distance of two inches from the top and nail on first cleat 
(i" X 2" X 2' 6"). Cleats are nailed on the back of the frame even 
with the ends of the upright pieces (2" X 4" X 6"). Nail brace 
(i" X 2" X 6' 6") diagonally from one corner to the other. Nail the 
first cleat 9 inches from the bottom edge of the upright piece. All 
the other cleats must be nailed 8 inches apart. In each of the sprouting 
trays a hole % of an inch in diameter is bored to allow the water to drain 
out from the tray. 



96 



HOME LABOR SAVING DEVICES 




Detail of Tray 



POULTRY DEVICES 



97 



Dust Boxes. — Dust boxes are necessary during the winter 
months to keep the chickens from wallowing in the dirt, as this is 
the method used by them to cleanse themselves. A box four feet 
by four feet will be large enough to accommodate fifty chickens. 
Fine, light, dry dust should be kept in these boxes, and they should 
be placed in the sunlight and where they may be easily reached 
by the chickens. 

Drinking Vessel. — Should be large enough to hold sufificient 
water to last twenty-four hours. They must be elevated in some 
way to keep the dirt from getting into them. A practical drinking 
vessel is made of a Mason glass jar. Make perforations in the 
top of the jar with a nail and tack two strips of wood across the 
top crosswise to raise the jar from the saucer or plate. This 
allows the water to flow freely from the jar as fast as the chickens 
can drink it from the saucer, and the covered jar keeps the drink- 
ing water clean. 




98 



HOME LABOR SAVING DEVICES 



Brooder. — A simple and convenient chicken brooder may be 
made of an old wooden tub which is turned upside down on a 
platform with the bottom of the tub knocked out, and a covering 
placed over the top. This, with windows cut in the sides of the 
tub, gives a better ventilation for the chickens. A door through 
which the chickens enter is cut in the front. Outside of the brooder 
and on one end of the platform is a simple watering device supply- 
ing the chickens with fresh water. 




CHAPTER VI 

DAIRY DEVICES 

SHOWING USE OF BUTTER-MAKING EQUIPMENT 

The economic value of farm butter made from the product of 
a few cows is of much more importance than is commonly sup- 
posed. For this reason the fundamental principles underlying the 
making of good butter should be practised as much by the farm 
woman, making butter in small quantities for the market or the 
consumption in the home, as by the operator of a large creamery 
establishment. The quality of butter made on the average farm 
shows that cleanliness and the proper attention to the simplest 
details in the making of good butter have been neglected. 

Quality. — The method used in the handling of milk or cream 
and in making butter determines its quality. The sanitation of 
the utensils in whidi cream or milk is handled and the conditions 
surrounding it during ripening are of the utmost importance. A 
common practice among some farm women is to put the milk in 
shallow, uncovered pans which are exposed to dust, flies, and 
the odors which frequent the pantry and kitchen. Such pans 
are allowed to stand until the milk clabbers and a thick leathery 
sheet of cream is formed on the top. Good butter cannot be made 
from milk or cream handled in this manner. A deep, narrow 
vessel known as a shot-gun can is recommended for use in ripen- 
ing cream or milk because it is easily handled, washed and can be 
covered. These can be bought at hardware stores or mail order 
houses. 

Utensils. — Convenient equipment for making butter is essen- 
tial and very inexpensive. It is customary on many farms to 
churn the cream in an earthen jar with a wooden dasher and stick. 
Earthenware vessels commonly used are porous and often contain 
blisters or air bubbles, all of which will absorb milk. The milk 
sours in these places and gives the vessels a characteristic bad 
odor. These churns are hard to clean and heavy to handle and 

99 



100 HOME LABOR SAVING DEVICES 

should never be used. A wooden barrel churn is one of the best 
types to use because it is easily operated, cleaned, and handled. 
Churns which contain agitators and gearing of different kinds 
should not be used. 

A dairy thermometer, which can be bought at any local hard- 
ware or drug store at a small cost, is necessary to determine the 
temperature of the cream. 

When there are at least four cows milked, a small cream 
separator will be a good investment. Where a separator cannot 
be had, hand skimming is advisable if the cream is properly 
handled. 

Ripening of Cream. — The ripening of milk or cream is the 
natural souring which takes place under proper conditions and 
which gives butter its characteristic flavor. The quality of butter 
depends, to a large extent, upon proper ripening. Where hand 
skimming is practised, set separate milkings in cool, well-venti- 
lated places and allow to stand from twelve to eighteen hours 
for the cream to rise. Skim the cream off with a cup or large 
spoon, put it into a can which is kept in a cool place at a tempera- 
ture of 50 degrees Fahrenheit or below. Skimmings from the 
different milkings are cooled to the same temperature before being 
added to this stock can. The contents of this can must be stirred 
each time after adding the cream. When sufficient cream for a 
churning has been secured in this way the contents of the stock 
can are warmed to a temperature of 58 to 60 degrees Fahrenheit 
and in winter 62 degrees Fahrenheit, then allowed to stand in a 
clean, well-ventilated place for twelve or eighteen hours to ripen. 
This warming is done by setting the can in a vessel of hot water. 
Frequent stirring is necessary during the ripening period. Cream 
properly ripened has a velvety and glossy appearance, with a mild 
but pleasant sour taste. When hand skimming is not practised 
the churning will have to be done more frequently to prevent the 
milk from becoming too sour and giving the butter a bad flavor. 

Coloring the Butter. — The natural color of butter when the 
cows can get plenty of nature's food is a soft, straw yellow. 
During the winter, if it is necessary to use dry feed alone, the 
butter will lack color which can be supplied by the addition of a 



DAIRY DEVICES 101 

harmless coloring matter. The amount of coloring matter neces- 
sary to use varies with the season but usually 8 to 12 drops of 
harmless vegetable coloring to every pound of butter will be 
sufficient in the winter time. This coloring matter may be bought 
at most drug stores. 

Churning. — When the cream is ready for churning, rinse the 
churn with scalding water to cleanse it thoroughly and to swell 
the pores in the wood. Following this, cool the churn with cold 
water to prevent the raising of the temperature of the cream 
when put into the churn. The cream should be poured through a 
strainer into the churn to remove lumps or hard white specks of 
cream which may have dried to the sides of the can. Gas will 
form in the churn during the first few minutes of churning which 
must be let out by removing the cork at the bottom of the churn. 
It may be necessary to repeat this operation several times. After 
the churn has been in operation about 20 minutes, the cream be- 
comes thick and shortly after, very small, mealy granules begin 
to form. At this point the cream begins to break away from the 
glass in the top of the churn lid. When this stage is reached, 
after every four or five revolutions the lid should be removed and 
the size of the granules observed. When these have reached the 
size of large wheat grains, the churning operation has been com- 
pleted. At this point the glass in the top appears clear which 
indicates that the granules slide off instead of sticking to the top. 
It usually takes at least 25 minutes to churn good butter. If it 
takes longer, the temperature of the next cream churned should 
be raised a few degrees. 

Washing the Butter. — When churning is completed draw the 
buttermilk off through a strainer to catch small particles of butter. 
The butter is washed to remove the buttermilk, to improve the 
flavor, and to keep better. Buttermilk is washed out of the butter 
and not worked out. The temperature of the wash water should 
be the same as that of the buttermilk and is determined by the 
use of a thermometer. This temperature depends upon the con- 
dition of the butter; if the butter is too soft the water must be 
colder, and vice versa. In washing butter, water is added and the 
churn given two or three revolutions so as to turn the butter; 



102 HOME LABOR SAVING DEVICES 

after whicih the water is drawn off and the process repeated several 
times until the water drawn off is clear. 

Salting the Butter. — The butterworker, paddles, and mold or 
printer are scalded and cooled in the same way as the churn and 
for the same reasons. The churn is then drawn near the worker 
and the butter granules removed with paddle or ladle and placed 
on worker. The hands must never touch butter for sanitary 
reasons and because tihey will give the butter a greasy appearance. 
As soon as the butter is placed on the worker, one ounce of fine, 
clean salt to a pound of butter is sprinkled uniformly over the 
butter. 

Working the Butter. — Butter should then be worked well to 
distribute the salt through it and to expel the excess water. Butter 
is salted to improve the flavor, to serve the market purposes and 
to some degree to act as a preservative. In working the butter, 
the pile of granules is pressed flat with the lever, and the flattened 
mass of butter turned over about 12 or 14 times until the edges of 
butter, when broken, have a granular appearance similar to a 
broken half-baked potato. Too much working destroys the grain 
and the edges when broken apart will have a slightly stringy 
appearance, while too little working gives a streaked or mottled 
butter. 

Printing and Wrapping the Butter. — The printer is removed 
from the water as soon as the working has been completed and 
with both hands it is pressed on the mass of butter until it is 
packed full. That remaining over the edge is then cut off with 
a paddle and the print pushed out on a sheet of parchment paper 
and neatly wrapped. The, printing and wrapping of butter cannot 
be emphasized too strongly, for a good appearance is fundamental 
to obtaining good markets for the butter. It is very much easier 
to get a good market for butter packed neatly in parchment paper 
than it is for that wrapped in a cloth as is the case in so many 
country homes. It is very important that a good grade of parch- 
ment paper should be used for wrapping butter and this can be 
bought from firms handling dairy supplies or it may be ordered 
by mail. The brick-shaped mold is used because prints can be 
handled with convenience and such prints are a standard on 



DAIRY DEVICES 103 

the market. A mold of this kind can be purchased from local 
hardware stores or mail order houses for from $1.50 to $5.00. 
The placing of the wrapped print in a pasteboard box or carton 
not only protects the butter from the finger prints but also from 
dust and dirt. These cartons may be bought from any firm 
handling dairy supplies. Buttei* put up in this manner is 
convenient to handle, attractive in appearance, and is also an 
advertisement. 

Marketing the Butter. — The appearance of the package deter- 
mines to a large extent the selling price of butter and every effort 
should be made to make it as neat, attractive, and convenient 
to handle as possible. The ultimate end in the making of farm 
butter is to supply a delicate food for the family and to obtain a 
profit from the surplus. To do this, it is necessary to create a 
demand by giving satisfaction to your customers. This can be 
done by putting up butter superior In quality and attractive in 
appearance. 



104 



HOME LABOR SAVING DEVICES 



BUTTER WORKER 

A very useful appliance, and easily operated, making the 
butter into a close-grained mass without injuring the texture of 
it. It is made of poplar, triangular in shape, with a corrugated 
roller. This roller fits in a hole made in a piece of metal which is 
put across the smaller end of the worker. This worker may be 
operated by putting it on the kitchen table, or it may be placed 
on adjustable legs. 




Materials : 

28^' of poplar. 

ID No. 14 screws, 4", to fasten the sides on the bottom. 

3 No. 14 screws, 3", to fasten the smaller brace on bottom. 

5 No. 10 screws, 2", to fasten the larger brace on the bottom. 

I piece 28-gage zinc 4-)4" wide X 16" long, for front piece. 

8 four-penny box nails to fasten zinc across the front. 

I pan 2" deep X 12" wide X 14" long, to place under worker in small 

end to catch drippings from butter. 
Wood glue to fasten handle on roller. 

Dimensions : 

Bottom: i piece i%" thick X 36^^" wide X 44^" long. 

Sides: 2 pieces i%" thick X 8" wide X 40" long. 

Braces: 1 piece 4" thick X 4" wide X 38" long, to be used at the large 

end of worker as a support. 
I piece 3" thick X 2" wide X i8>^" long, to be used at the small end of 

worker as support 
Roller: 1 piece 4" thick X 4" wide X 44^2" long. 
Handle: 1 piece i" thick X i" wide X 12" long. 



DAIRY DEVICES 



105 



Directions : 

Taper the bottom piece at one end to iVA", measuring 5^)4" from each 
side of this end, using a radius of 42^". Screw brace (4" X 4" X 38" ) 
on the broad end of the bottom, making the holes large enough to fit 
the heads of the screws. In the same way screw on the brace for the narrow 
end. Taper the two sides to 6" at the narrow end, and measuring i%" 
from the bottom, using a radius of }i" for rounding the top edge of 




Pan 



}r4- 



i 



r^^^ 




the sides. Nail the sides to the bottom. The roller is made 44^" long 
and 4" in diameter, measuring 54" from the end to round the corners. 
Bore a hole 2" long in the end and glue the handle on it. Put a small 
metal pin measuring Yz" in diameter in the end of roller to hold handle 
in place. 

Tack the piece of zinc across the narrow end of the worker, making a 
hole in the center to fit end of roller. Sandpaper when completed. 



106 



HOME LABOR SAVING DEVICES 



MILKING STOOL 

A convenient device used in milking, which not only provides 
a seat for the one Mrho is milking, but a platform with a hoop to 
hold the bucket. The bench is light in weight which makes it easy 
to handle. When not in use it may be hung on the wall. 

Materials : 

2,yz' yellow pine. 

I piece of metal, i" wide X 15" long, to make hoop to hold bucket. 

J4 lb. 6-penny nails. 

Sandpaper and paint. 




Dimensions : 

Top: I piece ^" thick X 10" wide X 14" long. 

Brackets: 4 pieces ^" thick X 3" wide X 3" long to support top shelf. 

2 pieces Y^' thick X 2" wide X 3" long to support shelf which holds 

bucket. 
Shelf: I piece %" thick X 3^4" wide X 10" long to hold bucket. 
Ends: 2 pieces 94" thick X 10" wide X iiyi" long. 



DAIRY DEVICES 



107 




!-«■•- 



U> 



r '^^ N 



— // 



] 




Directions ; 



Make the top of the stool, using the piece (^" X lo" X 14" ), rounding 
both ends to a radius of 5". Make the front and back supports as shown 
in illustrations 4 and 5. Make the bucket shelf (54" X 3^" X 10") 
next, fastening the two pieces (^4" X 2" X 3") to the shelf as supports 
and then nailing the whole to end of stool. Sandpaper the stool and then 
paint the whole any desired color, preferably white. 



108 



HOME LABOR SAVING DEVICES 



CHEESE-MAKING EQUIPMENT 

Devices used in the process of making cottage, Neufchatel, 
and cream cheese are given, accompanied by directions for the use 
of each of these devices in the making of these cheeses. 

Construction of Drainer. — The rack shown in the figure is 
13 inches wide, 13 inches long, and 10 inches deep. The corner 
posts extend i^ inches above and below the strips at the top and 
bottom with the tops rounded as shown in the illustration. The 
bottom slats fit loosely into notches, hence they may be removed 




when the draining rack is washed. The materials required are 
four corner posts i^ X i/^ inches; 15 strips i X 9^ X 13 inches 
and 2 strips 1X^X13 inches notched to receive the bottom 
slats. Pine or poplar may be used for the construction of 
this device. 

Construction of Press. — 3 or 4 inch poplar boards 18 X 18 
inches are used for this press. Cleats are placed on the back of 
these boards to keep them from warping. The lower board of 
this press has a circular groove which has an outlet in one side 
to allow the whey to drain off. 



DAIRY DEVICES 109 

Cottage Cheese. — Cottage cheese has been produced from time 
immemorial upon the farm. Ordinarily, it is made from milk 
that has been allowed to stand until it thickens by natural souring. 
It is then skimmed. After skimming, the rather firm mass of 
loppered milk is stirred with a large wooden spoon. 

Simultaneously with the gentle breaking of the coagulum the 
temperature of the mixture of whey and curd is gradually raised to 
about 95 degrees Fahrenheit and maintained at that temperature 
for five minutes. This mixture should be stirred occasionally but 
not vigorously. Too much stirring will cause the mass to drain 
slowly. After this heating process the mixture of whey and curd 
is poured into the draining cloth ; usually muslin or cotton sheet- 
ing is stretched over the draining rack, which is especially con- 
structed for this purpose. Such a rack as shown in the illustration 
can be made very easily and at a small cost. Thirty pounds of 
milk per rack may be easily handled. Perhaps, in handling the 
milk in this quantity, it would be advisable to make the rack some- 
what longer than the one illustrated. A rack rectangular in 
shape, 13 inches wide, 36 inches long and 10 inches deep is suffi- 
cient. The draining mixture is left undisturbed for half an hour 
and then the curd is worked toward the center of the cloth by 
means of a spoon or ladle. The last of the whey is removed by 
raising and lowering repeatedly the ends of the draining cloth. 
After draining the curd in this manner the corner of the cloth is 
folded over to form a sack and the curd is placed between the 
heavy boards or press. If more pressure is needed weights may 
be placed on the top board. When the curd has acquired the 
consistency desired it is salted to suit the taste, and usually a 
small amount of cream is added. The use of the latter, however, 
is entirely optional. 

The expulsion of the whey by heating hardens the particles of 
curd, giving a grainy texture to the mass. 

Cheese Mold. — The second drawing illustrates a home-made 
mold, which may be used for molding Neufchatel cheese, which is 
constructed as "follows: A 4-inch board, 12 X 12 inches, may be 
used for this purpose. Bore six 3-inch holes through this board 



110 



HOME LABOR SAVING DEVICES 



and line each with strips of tin, soldering the ends of the tin where 
they lap. Each of these holes makes a circular mold for the cheese. 

The Plunger. — The plunger resembles an old-fashioned potato 
masher. The lower part of it should be of the same diameter as 
the holes in the board so that it may be used for removing the 
cheese from the mold as well as for packing it tightly into 
these molds. 

The texture of the cheese is materially improved by running it 
through a food chopper or sausage grinder before molding it. 

Neufchatel Cheese. — Fresh clean milk is required tO' make a 




high-grade Neufchatel cheese. In no case should the milk be over 
twelve hours old. A slow development of a clean acid flavor is 
demanded. The addition of a commercial lactic starter in small 
amounts aids in obtaining curd free from objectionable ferments. 
Too much starter will produce acid too rapidly and give a rough 
mealy curd. A very satisfactory product may be secured, if the 
milk is reasonably clean, without using any starter. 

Starter. — The starter is merely soured milk. In making a 
home-made starter place a clean milk bottle and tumbler in a pan 
of cold water and bring same to boiling ; remove the bottle, allow 



DAIRY DEVICES 111 

it to cool and then fill it with the freshest, cleanest milk available. 
The bottle should now be covered with a sterilized glass tumbler 
in order to prevent the entrance of dirt. Allow the milk to sour at 
a temperature of about 75° F. (room temperature). 

Two cubic centimeters of active starter for each thirty-pound 
can of milk will give good results. After adding the starter the 
milk is vigorously stirred and warmed to a temperature of 80° F. 
Rennet is now added at the rate of 30 drops per 100 pounds of milk. 
Upon a small scale junket tablets may be used for curdling pur- 
poses. The mixture, after being thoroughly stirred, is left at rest 
over night at room temperature, or preferably a little higher. The 
firm curd is now poured upon the draining rack as with the cottage 
cheese and allowed to drain for about two hours. Toward the 
end of the draining period the curd is worked toward the center of 
the cloth by means of a ladle. The cloths containing the curd are 
now tied together bag fashion and pressed. The hand-made con- 
trivance illustrated may be used, or merely allow weights to 
rest on bags of curd over nigiht. The more whey that is removed 
the better will be the flavor and keeping qualities of the cheese. 
The curd should drain out and not dry out. Mix in the salt to 
suit the taste by using a butter worker or a pail and potato masher. 
Ordinarily about one ounce of salt to four pounds of curd is suf- 
ficient. The cheese is now ready to be run through the food chop- 
per and molded. Sometimes it is packed tightly into screw top 
jars or jelly glasses with tight covers, but usually the cheese is 
molded into shape and wrapped in parchment paper, surrounded 
by tin foil to exclude the air. Such molds may be formed by hand 
closely enough to exclude the air. Butter printers are often used. 
If the work is done upon a small scale some kind of a hand formed 
package is probably most economical. If the device illustrated 
is to be used, after the cheese has been salted and forced through 
the food dhopper it should be packed tightly into the holes of the 
molding board, pounding in a small amount at one time until each 
hole is filled, then cut off any which extends over the edge or 
side and force the circular molds through by pushing it out with 
the wooden plunger, which just fits into the openings. This will 



112 HOME LABOR SAVING DEVICES 

give compact, attractive molds, wihich can be easily wrapped. 
This cheese should be wrapped in parchment paper and like all 
other dairy products it should be kept in a cool place. 

Cream Cheese. — Cream cheese is made in practically the same 
way as Neufchatel cheese except that the former is made out of 
cream testing from 6 to 8 per cent. fat. 

More detailed information on the subject of making cheese 
can be obtained from the bulletins and books suggested for refer- 
ence reading in the list given in the back of this book. 



APPENDIX lis 

APPENDIX 

FUNDAMENTALS IN WOODWORKING 

Note. — Some of the terms used in the text are explained in 
this chapter. 

Teno)L — A tenon is a piece of wood shaped Hke a tongue by 
dividing the end into three rectangular parts, cutting the sides 
away and leaving the middle which is shaped tO' form a tongue. 

Mortise. — A mortise is a hollow cut in to receive a correspond- 
ing piece of wood. It is made b}- measurmg the required distances 
on a piece of wood and boring holes. Take out these portions of 
wood with a chisel until the mortise is of the required size. 
Mortise and tenon joints put together in one direction, as those 
made in the back of a chair, are much easier made than those 
which are joined in two directions, as in the framework of a stool. 

Mitred Joint. — There are many modifications of this joint 
but the one most used is the one made at an angle of 45 degrees. 
Mitred joints are easily made but they have a tendency to shrink, 
leaving an opening on the inside of the joint. 

Cleat. — A piece of wood nailed down to secure something from 
slipping. The size of a cleat will be determined by the weight 
which it is to hold. 

Bevel. — A bevel is a finished edge to a piece of wood. The 
kind of problem must determine the kind of beveled edge to be 
made. The blade of the square must be set at the correct angle 
in making a bevel edge. The most popular bevel is made by 
setting the bevel square at an angle of 45 degrees. 

Bracket or Brace. — A supporting piece for a shelf or any other 
place which needs strengthening. 

Panel. — Any area out of level. It may be sunk below or raised 
above the general face of the surrounding work. They are set 
in grooves made the proper depth with a plane. Every piece of 
wood used in panelling must be straight with the face surface of 
the wood and straight and square with the front edge to make 
a flat and square panel. 



114 HOME LABOR SAVING DEVICES 

Groove. — A groove is a furrow or a long hollow. The depth 
of the furrow depends on the rail it is to hold. 

Taper. — A taper is a graduated point. All parts of the sur- 
face must have the same amount of taper to make it equally tight 
at all points when driven into place. Draw lines on the end of the 
wood and across the center at equal distances from the corners 
and with the surface straight on both sides. Care must be taken 
not to split the corners while making a taper. 

Plugs. — Plugs are pieces of tapered wood used as a stopper, 
such as in the' illustration of Jelly Strainer No. 2. When plugs 
are to be used, the holes must be made in the wood before the 
pieces are put together. 

"Penny." — This term is a corruption of "pound" and used 
in speaking of different kinds of nails. For example, eight- 
penny nails means that one thousand of them weigh eight pounds. 

Radius Bar. — A bar pivoted at one end, about which it swings, 
and having its other end attached to a piece which it causes to 
move in a circular arc as in the corrugated roller made to work 
the butter. 

Finishing. — There are two things to be considered in finishing 
woodwork; the preservation of the wood, and the artistic finish. 
Three steps are necessary in putting on the finishing touches. 
First, the surfaces made smooth by the use of sandpaper; the 
second, staining or varnishing, and the third, polishing. 

Sandpaper. — Sandpaper is not expected to do the work of 
edged tools. Tool work must be completed before using sand- 
paper, or particles of dust will get into the pores of the wood 
which will dull the tools while working with them. Never sand- 
paper across the grain of the wood. While dressing flat surfaces, 
use a piece of sandpaper put over a block of wood. 

Stains.— W2itQ.r, oil, and alcoholic stains are used for staining 
woodwork. All have their advantages and disadvantages, but 
for general purposes the alcoholic stains are highly recommended, 
Johnson's wood dye being one of the best. A good water stain 
is made by boiling an extract of logwood, the size of a walnut, 
with four ounces of water. This is applied to the wood while 



APPENDIX 115 

hot, using a brush or sponge with which to apply it. Repeat the 
apphcation until the desired color is obtained. Varnish must be 
used only when a hard, transparent finish is desired. 

Polish or Wax. — Satisfactory results cannot be obtained 
unless the surface is smooth and well prepared by the use of sand- 
paper and stain. A cheap recipe for making wax is given as 
follows : 

I lb. beeswax. i pt. turpentine. 

1/2 pt. alcohol. 

Break up the beeswax and melt it into the consistency of 
thick cream in a bowl placed in a saucepan of boiling water. 
Remove bowl from the fire, gradually beating into the wax the 
turpentine and alcohol. Store it away in covered jars and warm 
slightly when it is to be used. Spread a thin layer on a soft 
woollen cloth and apply it to the surface. 



116 HOME LABOR SAVING DEVICES 

SUGGESTED LIST OF TOOLS 

I Stanley " Bed Rock " smooth-plane, No. 603 $1.60 

I Disston's Crosscut-saw, No. 9, 22" — 10 points 1.15 

I Disston's Back-saw, No. 4, 10" 95 

I Buck Bros, firmer chisel, 1" 35 

I Buck Bros, firmer chisel, ^" 20 

I Hammond's Adze-eye hammer, No. 3, 7 oz 45 

I Hardened blade try-square, No. 5>^, 6" 25 

I Beech Marking-gage, No. 64 1^, 8" 20 

I Sloyd Knife, No. 7, 2Y2" blade ^o 

I Boxwood rule, 2', 4-fold 12 

I Barber's ratchet brace. No. 2>2>, 8" sweep 1.40 

I Miter-box, beech, 12" long. No. 00 30 

4 Brad awls, handled, i", iYa", i^", ^" 15 

I Set Russell Jennings Auger-bits, Vie,", Vic", Vie", Vw", and Vie" 1.40 

I Quire sandpaper. No. 00 30 

I Quire sandpaper. No. i , 30 

Total $9.4^ 

Note: Sufficient equipment for constructing all of these devices may be 
found in average country homes. The work may be successfully done with 
fewer tools but this list is given as a suggestion for schools. 



APPENDIX 117 

LIST OF PUBLICATIONS FOR SUPPLEMENTARY READING 

Farm Butter-making, Farmers' Bulletin 541, U. S. Department of Agriculture, 

Washington, D. C. 
Butter-making on the Farm, Georgia State College of Agriculture, Athens, Ga. 
Butter-making, Storrs Experiment Station, Storrs, Conn. 
Cheese-making, Wisconsin Experiment Station, Madison, Wis., Bulletin 181. 
Neufchatel Cheese, Bulletin 78, Storrs Experiment Station, Storrs, Conn. 
Cottage or Dutch Cheese and Other Cheese, Oklahoma Agricultural College, 

Stillwater, Okla. 
Conveniences for Handling the Farm Cow and Her Products, Special, U. S. 

Dept. of Agriculture, Office of the Secretary, Washington, D. C. 
The Production and Care of Milk and Cream, Special, U. S. Dept. of Agri., 

Office of the Secretary, Washington, D. C. 
A Plan for a Small Dairy House, Farmers' Bulletin 689, Department of 

Agriculture, Washington, D. C. 
The Control of Chicken Mites and Lice, Iowa State College of Agriculture, 

Ames, Iowa. 
How to Care for the Little Chick, West Virginia University Agri. Exp. Station, 

Morgantown, W. Va. 
Suggestions on Poultry Raising for the Southern Farmer, Special, U. S. 

Department of Agriculture, Office of the Secretary, Washington, D. C. 
Oregon Station Trap-Nest, Oregon Agricultural College, Corvallis, Oregon. 
A Simple Trap-Nest for Poultry, Farmers' Bulletin 682, U. S. Department of 

Agriculture, Washington, D. C. 
The Organization of Boys' and Girls' Poultry Clubs, Farmers' Bulletin 562, 

U. S. Department of Agriculture, Washington, D. C. 
Running Water for Farm Homes, A. & M. College, Agricultural College, Miss. 
Domestic Water Supply, Bulletin 215 by V. M. Cone, Special, Colorado Ex- 
tension Service, Fort Collins, Colorado. 
Simple Water Supplies for the Farm, Extension Bulletin 18, University of 

Nebraska, Lincoln, Nebr, 



INDEX 



Barrel, garbage, 74 

Bath, shower, 81 

Board, ironing, 20 

Box, blacking, 61 

Box, coal, 34 

Boxes, dust, for poultry, 97 

Box, wood, 37 

Brooder, 98 

Butter-making, 99 

Cabinet, wall, for kitchen, 17 

Chariot, Scrubbing, 75 

Cooker, fireless, 39 

Drainer, dish, 28 

House, poultry, 84 

Hopper, dry mash, for poultry No i , 89 

Hopper, dry mash, for poultry No. 2, 92 

Mop, dustless, 67 

Mold, cheese, 109 

Nests, poultry, 85 

Publications, list 

reading, 117 
Rack, cheese, 108 
Rack, dish, 31 



for supplementary 



Rack, oat-sprouting trays, 95 

Refrigerator, iceless. No. i, 51 

Refrigerator, iceless, No. 2, 55 

Roller, towel, 63 

Screen, house, 49 

Screen, sewing, 77 

Sideboard, 46 

Stand, umbrella, 58 

Strainer, jelly No. i, 23 

Strainer, jelly No. 2, 26 

Stool, milking, 106 

Swing, porch, 65 

Table, folding canning, 68 

Table, vegetable paring, 15 

Tester, egg, 86 

Tools, suggested list, 116 

Trap, fly, 71 

Vessel, drinking, for poultry, 97 

Wagon, roller tray, 43 

Waterworks system, practical, 82 

Woodworking, fundamentals in, 113 

Worker, butter, 104 



119 



